New Skid House Question

[thedeadsea]

I'm thinking I am going to upgrade my permanent and build a 8'x10' skid house next summer.

Should I use 6"x6" skids?

As far as studs, will 2"x3" all around be strong enough?

Will a Polaris Ranger be able to pull it on a packed snowmobile trail? I am going to try to keep it as light as possible.

Should I put a bank of holes across the back wall, or put rectangles in each corner, allowing room for 2 holes in each rectangle?

Thanks in advance,

Steve

[My_Key]

One piece of advice I can give is DO NOT put holes directly in the corners. Leave yourself some room for your auger. Another note on the holes, I prefer my lines to be as far apart as possible, more coverage and less likely to tangle when fighting feisty fish(a problem I encounter a lot in my portable). Also, 4x6 might make better skids, setting them so they are 4" wide and 6" tall. If you're concerned about weight, have you thought of metal studs? I used them(2x2)in my wheelhouse and I'd bet a package of ten weighed as much as two 2x4's.

[thedeadsea]

Heard of, but never have seen metal studs. How do you connect them at the top and bottom?

[frigid_holes]

6x6 will be fine for skids. Make sure you attach them good, and when you think you've done enough, double it. I had a skid pop off this year and it was a bit of a PITA to fix it on the ice.

2x3 is a bit overkill for studs. I did ripped down 2x4s and my house is rock solid. Edit* I used 2x4's in the corners, as well as above the windows and doors. 2x4s for the roof, covered with 1/2" OSB and a rubber membrane. Treated 2x4s for the floor, and 3/4" treated plywood.

You should have no problem on a packed trail, bare ice, or snow up to about 6", but that will depend on your clearance and weight.

Since you mentioned weight, steel studs would be a good way to go, as well as steel or aluminum siding. A lot of people mention weight, and then use OSB or plywood for siding.

[thedeadsea]

Thanks.

Was planning to do a 2"x4" floor with 1/2" plywood, and sheet the whole thing with either metal or 3/16" OSB.

Interested in hearing more about the metal studs.

[muddpuppy]

Steel studs cost 2-3x more than ripping down 2x4's. This is only a problem if you are on a budget. Steel studs will offer straighter lines to work with. All you will need is a tape measure good screw gun and a box of sheet metal screws. Your local DIY store should carry them, if not contact a local builder for supplier info

[trapperdirk]

thedeadsea , my advice is to have your skids bolted so you can remove them if they ever freeze in . That way you just unbolt them and slide the house off to chisel them free . Also I put my holes in a trough going almost center down the length of the hut . Makes it alot easier when you just drill a line of holes before and just slide the hut over them . Corners can be he77 to drill in and also its normally where you put your blocking to keep them off the ice .

TD

[L_Cappo]

use 6x6 oak skids and yes make sure you can take them off with out ripping the whole hpuse apart.i have seen metal skids but the only problem with using those its very hard to stop the house with out it hitting the back of your truck.

[rickl1968]

I just built my own 8x12, easier to go 12' less cutting. I went with 2x4 walls and floors, built sturdier and will last alot longer.(cost more but it's worth it in the long run) Make sure your skis are longer than your shack by at least a foot on either side, easier to pull through deep snow and if it gets stuck you have something to jack from. (donot jack your frame of the hut it can crack and break or pull away from your skis) I went with 8x8 skis and plan to use 5 gallon buckets for sleves in my holes.

Hope this helps.

Use teflon/hyfax wide strips the width of your skis and you will be able to push the shack yourself on flat ice.

Rick