Building Fold Down Portable

[JacobMHD]

You know the kind where the end are made of plywood and the middle is made of a tarp. For those of you that have made or used one of these styled houses, did it have canvas or blue tarp material for the middle section? What are the pros and cons of each, from your experience?

I am trying to keep costs down and the canvas material has quickly become the most expensive itme on the list.

[SpecialK]

My brother built one a few years ago and he used a silver tarp I believe. If you go with the plastic tarp get the heaviest thickness you can. Canvas I believe will hold the heat inside better which is why you would want a heavier plastic material.

[forcedtowork]

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[JacobMHD]

What are the dimensions?

[LightningBG]

could check SR Harris Fabric Outlet in Brooklyn Park for canvas. I've had pretty good luck finding stuff there in the past.

[dairyman]

got any pictures

[bonehead99]

Canvas all the way. This weekend I used the one I built in the 70's. Canvas is quieter, can be patched if needed, won't snag and on and on. Mine is 4 x 8 and the ends fold done. The floor does not fold at all. With canvas you need to keep the mice out in the summer!

[JacobMHD]

My idea is to leave it up at LOW and store it outside. We don't have any other option for storing it and we want something to just leave up there. Anybody have an idea how to make a fold down with a removable canvas top? Maybe snaps or bungee straps??

[Phred52]

Absolutely go with the canvas (12 oz. is best)!! The plastic tarp will collect the water vapor and it'll be a raining in the house. That's not to mention that when those plastic tarps get cold they ARE NOISY!! Any little breeze and that tarp will be cracklin' all around you. Tried the tarp years ago, never since! Phred52

[Hubcat]

Another option might be to go with one of those hub style fish houses, they seem like they would work great and are not that expensive. maybe make a folding bottom to set it on when you are fishing and then fold the bottom for storage.

[LightningBG]

Here is some plans i found online a while back, picture to follow

If you follow these basic plans, you'll end up with a sturdy, functional ice fishing shack. Adding ski supports, you could use an old pair of snow ski's or 2" x 4"/ 2" x 6" runners, allows it to be pulled behind a snowmobile or ATV.

The first step is to place a 40" x 84" piece of 5/8" plywood on the

floor. On one end of the plywood, screw down a 2" x 4" x 40". The

back panel of the hut is fastened to this 2" x 4", to enable the front

panel to lay flat with the back panel on top of it (see diagrams A and . If you are adding skis, put them on now with 2" or 3" wood screws.

Space the skis 20" apart and taper the front ends for easy towing (see diagrams C and D). Next, take the remaining two sheets of plywood and mark 6'. Measure down from this mark 20" in the centre of each sheet and tie a 20" piece of string to a nail. Drive a nail into the mark on each panel; fasten the pencil and string to this nail, and, holding the pencil, scribe an arc on the top of each panel (see diagram F). Use a jig saw to cut out the arcs. Slide the off-cut plywood down 3" or 4" under the cut panel and mark the radius. This curved piece of off-cut can be used later to attach the tarp.

Next, measure a 2' x 4' doorway on the front and back panels, if two doors are required. Leave a 5" sill on the bottom to keep out blowing

snow and retain plywood strength (see diagram G). Cut out the door(s) with a jig saw and re-attach with two hinges. A handle and latch completes

the job. A small porthole can

be cut at one or both ends for ventilation.

If a heater is to be used, ventilation is a must to avoid a build-up of dangerous carbon monoxide. Also, a small viewing hole at either end at eye level can be cut out and covered with a piece of plastic or lexan.

Now everything is ready to assemble. Using three hinges for each end panel, fasten them inside to the hut. To maintain an even height, keep the front and back panels flush with the bottom of the floor. Now add wire supports running from each corner of the front and back panels to the floor. They fold with the hut (see diagram E). The framework can now be erected and the ridge pole put in place at top. For added strength and comfort, two more ridge poles can be added at the sides, giving the angler a place to lean back and have a shelf in front of him.

With the frame erected, apply the canvas or tarp. You might need a helping hand. If you wish, you can staple every 3" to 4" on the side panels and floor. A 3" or 4" plywood security strip on the front and

back panels adds durability and strength. Now, cut openings in the plywood floor to the size of auger hole you intend to use. I prefer to make a 10" x 14" hinged rectangular opening and use a small barrel

bolt to hold it closed. This prevents snow from entering while transporting the hut behind a snowmobile.

The basic hut is now finished. A coat of paint, stain, or varnish on wooden parts helps preserve them.

To transport the hut, just remove the ridge pole(s), fold the front panel, and then the back panel over the front panel (see diagram D). A small propane heater keeps the inside of the hut amazingly warm, especially if snow is banked up around the outside. Seating can be folding chairs or stools. Materials cost $100 to $200, depending on the quality of the covering and plywood you use. The hut is designed for years of use, so the initial cost of quality products is well justified. You could very easily modify the plans to accommodate a 4x8 size.

[LightningBG]

[gurkster]

I would look at used portables. If cost is the issue, I bet you can get one a few years old, in decent shape for less that it costs to build one. If you are a do-it-yorselfer though then go for it.

[bogwalker]

One advantage to the above illustrated model is that you can put a stove pipe through one end and heat with a wood stove.

[JacobMHD]

We plan to build an 8' by 8' house that is light enough to lift with two guys. 8 holes, two in each corner, with 6' ceilings. The floor would be insulated and the two ends would each have a 2' by 4' door. Two windows on each end on either side for tipups. I can make it with materials (minus canvas) from one of the big box retail stores for less than $100.

[shorefisher]

I had one of these years back and if you are just going to leave it outside and want to go cheep the tarp (That is what I had just the cheep blue one's) will work just fine. If you make sure the tarp is tight most of the water that builds up will just run down the side (heck my new shack dip's) and it will make a little more noise in the wind but again new shake makes noise in the wind. These are great for what they cost to build and are better then standing outside. One last thing we did use a wood stove and it did not build up water at all with the wood just when we used LP.

[THEDOGG]

I used to have a small shack like this made from canvas it had 1/4 plywood floor and the end with the door, the other end had a U - shaped bent piece of conduit, all you had to do is put a pole in between to tighten it up. You might want to check with Tarp's in Savage MN they should have or know of somewhere to get canvas

[DTro]

I don't have anything add other than to say thanks for the great post LightingBG