Sometimes the obvious just isn't.......UPDATED!

[Jeremy airjer W]

Electrical draws are always kind of fun to deal with. There are hundreds of circuits and any one of them could be the problem. A systematic isolation of those circuits will usually narrow down the possibilities fairly quickly. Until a 97 Subaru Outback shows up!

The vehicle was recently purchased by the customer. It was towed in with a dead battery. A visual inspection showed an older battery that appeared to be in good shape. A quick battery test showed a very weak battery. After jump starting the alternator (obviously from a salvage yard as it was covered in yellow markings) showed more than adequate charging. Simple right, install a new battery and there on there way. Wrong!

The car came back a couple days later with a dead battery. Easy enough, hook up the amp meter, see what its drawing, isolate the circuit, and then isolate the component. Not on this one.

Our G.S. pulled it in and started by testing the battery. The tester kept registering interference and red flags went off. I told him to start by checking for draws and another tech assisted him. About 20 minutes later and I was called over to the vehicle. They explained that they found a .3 amp draw. It was still present after pulling all the fuses. They pulled the connector for the alternator and the draw went away. BINGO! The alternator is causing the draw. Not so fast!!

The customer was called and told of our findings. The customer elected to provide a used alternator. The alternator was installed during the day. When I showed up I inquired if the problem was solved and was told by the installer that an electrical check was done to make sure everything was working. It showed no problems including no interference. I asked what it was drawing and was told they didn't check because they didn't see the interference during the battery check. Hmmmmmmmm! They also found the black with white wire was cut and taped inside the harness near the connector. That seemed odd but everything was working so I guess its not an issue?

Fortunately the car stayed with us for a couple of days and we where pulling it in over night. Two days later and the battery was dead, again! That's where I take over.

I disconnected the Positive battery cable and installed my amp meter in series (one lead to the positive terminal of the battery the other to the positive cable end). A little over 300 milli-amps (.3 amps) shows up on the display. That's quite a bit considering the average late model vehicle will draw about 20 milli-amps in its dormant state.

The main fuse box is right next to the battery so I start pulling fuses. I found the same results as before and confirmed that the draw would go away with the alternator 2 wire connector unplugged or with the battery + cables removed from the battery + post of the alternator. Could it be another alternator?

Out of curiosity I printed off power distribution diagrams along with a charging system diagram (see below). I eliminated the rest of the car by pulling the SBF fuse #4. The draw is still there as expected. I pulled the fusible link and the draw goes away as expected also. I know know that the problem is either the alternator, one of the white wires, or the fuse block. I pull the F38 connector out of the fuse block (where the two white wires connect) and use a jumper wire to supply power to the connector. Still have a draw but I know the fuse block isn't the culprit.

Just to make sure I'm not making this a bigger deal than it is I order up a new alternator install the wiring and the draw is still there. I know now that the problem is in the white wire(s).

After spending a couple of hours so far I have become pretty familiar with the wiring of this car. It has revealed several aftermarket components with wire taps and scotch locks all over the place. I unenthusiastically decide that I need to pull the harness and see if somebody has tapped into it at some point and visually inspect the white wires to make sure they go where the diagram says they go. Everything is fine.

I decide to repair the black wire that goes to the alternator 2 wire connector. That didn't change anything either. I also decide to pull the white wire pin out of the connector to make sure there wasn't any chance of continuity between the two wires. It was fine other than the weather packing (seal) was a little chewed up where it is crimped to the pin, which is unusually.

I double check my work and then the light bulb went off. A quick image search on the web and the problem is confirmed!

Here's your clues,

-The car is a recently purchased used vehicle.

-Black and white wire cut and tapped inside the harness. Made no difference on the draw if it was connected.

-The draw is isolated to the white wires that run in between the fuse block and the alternator.

-The alternator is not the problem.

-The white wires are complete with no signs of tampering.

-The white wires go to exactly where the diagram shows an no where else.

-the draw will go away with either the two wire connector at the alternator unplugged OR with the battery + wires removed from the battery + post on the alternator.

-The solution was confirmed with an image search on the web.

So whats the problem? I'll have an answer for you in a couple of days.

[shizzy]

My brain hurts already....

which black and white wire was cut and taped? the main one or the one to the exterior lights?

[Jeremy airjer W]

Its not a Canadian vehicle so the DRL circuit is irrelevant. The wire was cut near the 2 pin connector that plugs into the back of the alternator.

[shizzy]

the only thing I can think of is that someone removed the terminals from the plug and reinstalled them in the wrong position on the plug. right wires, wrong side.

and yes, I did think about this all night at work....

[furnace man]

did they cut it to hot wire the car.

[Jeremy airjer W]

Nice Work shizzy! For some reason while the vehicle was under the ownership of the previous owner the black wire and the white wire where switched in the plug in connector at the alternator.

I should have caught that when I pulled the white wire out of the connector and found the torn weather pack but sometimes the obvious just isn't....obvious!

I confirmed the theory by searching for an image of a Subaru alternator. The plug and alternator have no markings to indicate which pin is number 1 and which is number 2 so you can't just look and see if they are correct.

[aczr2k]

Very odd.

[shizzy]

YAY! I can sleep!!!

[deadeye]

Solved before I got a good look at it. Nice. I looked at this one at work yesterday and someone would come by before I could finish reading it. Im not sure I would have gotten that one figured out if im honost.

I wonder why that would have gotten switched around? Awful prank to pull IMO. Worse than routing the washer nozzles inside under the dash to spray somone when they turn on the radio...

[Jeremy airjer W]

I think that the combination of general botched wiring, salvage yard parts, and some bad advice probably from an internet source led to the 2 wires getting mixed up.

[shizzy]

the aftermarket stuff wired in thing got me in the general direction. I have seen and repaired various things done by car audio installers. 99% of the general population doesn't know how to remove a terminal from a connector, but an installer does (and shouldnt)

[deadeye]

Ya I suppose. I get really crabby trying to figure out what other people have done wrong with wiring. It always seems like something weird gets done like that. My talon is testament to that. I bet I have taken a gallon pail full of wires from alarms and sterios and other gizmos out of their. Makes my head hurt.

[jwhjr]

Nice work!