Engine Problems - Not Getting Fuel

[MNMak]

Hi guys, new here and a friend recommended I post with this issue and that you are the best for help!

I have a 1990 Evinrude VRO 60hp tiller. When the engine is cold it starts and runs pretty good. I probably need to get a carb sync and just general tune up, but I don't think this issue is related to that.

If I run to a spot and let it sit aound 45 minutes or more, it will not restart. Within 30-45 minutes it restarts ok, most of the time. The problem appears to be a fuel issue, when I pump the fuel bulb after it won't start, the bulb has an air bubble in it, and I cannot get it to be fully firm. This always seems to be the case once the engine is warm, air in the fuel line blocking the fuel from getting to the engine somewhere/how.

A friend helped one night and figured out that if I close the red valve in the included picture and pump it (fuel line bulb) a few times, then open the valve and continue to pump, the engine will get fuel and start. I have to manipulate the throttle aggressively to get it to start from full close to about 1/2 throttle and it will finally start. It's a serious pain having to remove the cover and do this each time I want to change spots obviously...

Can anyone point me in the right direction? What is that valve for/what is it attached too? What is the petcock/bleeder valve on that for? I'm new to this stuff, but my friend has tools and can help me if I can get a general area to start.

Thanks very much!

-Dan Maki

"

[Phred52]

MNmak, On my 70 Jonny, that's the Primer Solenoid (60 and 70 are the same set-up). The little valve/ petcock is for fogging the engine for storage. Just remove the little cap, hook up the aerosol can of fogger, start the engine and open the valve while applying the fogging oil. Do that 'til the motor dies and put 'er away. Personally, I'd be more inclined to look for your trouble spot in the area of the fuel line or tank, in that order. Have you tried a different fuel line hose and bulb yet? It sounds like you have air entering the system after the suction from the fuel pump has dissapated and you're drawing in air on the motor end. Could be the motor end hose fitting, a small crack in the hose or a even a bad flapper in the bulb. I'd check the simple things first before you start tearing into it. Hopefully, some of the FM marine mechanics will chime in with their experience. Phred52

[marine_man]

Welcome to Fishing Minnesota!

phred's advice on checking the fuel line for issues first is right on. It's the cheapest place to start repairs. If it's been a while since you last replaced the fuel line I'd by a OMC version (not a cheap knockoff.. others have had repeated failures of those right out of the package) and see if that improves the situation. Also, trace the fuel line once it enters the motor to verify there's no visible leaks, cuts or pinholes.

marine_man

[boatfixer]

If the bulb is even in question I would replace it. However, I've seen many bulbs that need to be held vertical with the arrow pointing up in order for the internal check valves to work. I doubt there is enough air in the line or bulb to create an air lock. I would lean more towards bad bulb or small air leak.

In addition for a way to fog the engine, the primer in the picture also serves as a manual primer when the red valve is turned 90 degrees.

[Surface Tension]

Your description of symptoms brings more questions then answers.

I say that because it does not add up.

The red valve in the picture is in the off position and that is where it should be unless your are manually priming. If you use that manual prime to start the engine you need to turn it back off after the engine starts.

If your running with the primer in the on position then your engine should run rich, rich meaning too much fuel. That would also account for the primer bulb not getting pressure because you bypass the fuel inlet valve(needle and seat)and your priming.

If it runs good with the manual primer on then you do have a lack of fuel problem. That could be a number of things. As said start with the easy stuff first. That would be the fuel line and bulb and all connections. Don't overlook the impulse line from crankcase to fuel pump. Next would be fuel filter.

Lets back this up before we get into what else it could be.

Back to the red lever. Leave it in the position it is at in the picture(off).

When you cold start, press your key in, that activates your electric choke which isn't really a choke, rather a solinod that riches your fuel. See how it runs now, If it starts up easier when warmed up then that was your problem, "running with the fuel enrichment on"

[upnorth]

I had pretty much the same issue a few years back.

Let me get this straight, starts fine cold, starts back up again if you start it up after about 10 minutes, but starts like carp if you let it sit for more than 1/2 hour. That was exactly the scenario on my "87" 70 Evinrude. Messed around with all new fuel lines, bulb etc. Thought it was something to do with the the little red tab on the primer too. Big thing would be does it smoke a lot right after starting when it is warm. If so you may be having the same issue I did.

What wound up being the problem was that 2 of the carbs were filthy and the needle seats on the float weren't closing completely and the gas from the bowls were draining back down into the cylinders, which flooded those to cyclinders and made it a beotch to start warm.

Some carb cleaner the rebuild kits (about $70) and a few hours one evening after work and she runs like a champ, even got a couple more rpm out of her @ WOT to boot.

[MNMak]

"Let me get this straight, starts fine cold, starts back up again if you start it up after about 10 minutes, but starts like carp if you let it sit for more than 1/2 hour. That was exactly the scenario on my "87" 70 Evinrude. Messed around with all new fuel lines, bulb etc. Thought it was something to do with the the little red tab on the primer too. Big thing would be does it smoke a lot right after starting when it is warm. If so you may be having the same issue I did. "

This sounds exactly like the issue! The engine does blow a lot of smoke after a warm start - after having the starting issues.

Thanks for everyone's input. There are no visible leaks anywhere inside the engine or on the fuel line - no gas dripping or spraying out. I will change the fuel bulb as well; I do not believe this has ever been replaced.