Rotors and pads for 2004 Chevy Silverado

[Hookmaster]

The truck is a crew cab 4X4. I heard some rubbing on the left rear wheel. What I found was the outer edge of the rotor was rusted, swollen and flaky so much it was rubbing on the inside shield/cover on the wheel. The swollen rust has worn into the brake pad, otherwise the pads are holding up great. I want to replace the pads and rotors. I'd like to get pads that wear the same as the originals and don't produce dust like the originals and rotors that don't rust/swell along the outer edge. I checked my wife's Odyssey and the rotors were rusted but not swollen. I would like suggestions on brands please.

[jeffreyd]

I would go with a ceramic type pad if available. You should be able to have the rotor turned not sure what caused the issue unless you pull a heavy trailer and they were super heated. I would also check the rear brakes to make sure they are working and if you have a trailer brake to ensure that it too is working properly. I have seen the rotors on cop cars swell and crack through from pursuit they actually have been so hot they will glow red. I would look at oem or if you dont want to spend that money look at NAPA. Also you might consider buying preloaded calipers (have pads installed ) to ensure you dont have a caliper issue but it does not sound like it. Make sure you really clean the new rotors as they have a "goo" on them to prevent rust. Good luck

[Jeremy airjer W]

Thats pretty common on those. Its unlikely that you will solve the rusted rotors no matter what you do. There is a product called squeak relief which is basically a spray on anti-sieze looking product. You spray the entire surface front and back and it acts like a sacrificial coating (much like anti-sieze) and reduces the amount of rusting that will occur. A lot of the O.E. European rotors have a form of this on them when you by them.

Also the caliper bracket bolts have locktite on them from the factory. They are extremely difficult to remove!. Make sure you check the slides for free movement. its not uncommon for them to seize up.

[Hookmaster]

Maybe I didn't describe the rust formation very well. It is rusting from the outer edge of the rotor and working towards the center of the rotor. I don't know if any spray on coating would prevent that. I think its the quality of the metal of the rotor.

[Jeremy airjer W]

I know exactly what you are saying. I've seen hundreds of them that look like that. The squeak relief will help keep the rotor from rusting anywhere there is not pad contact. The inner and outer surfaces of the inside of the rotor have no pad contact. Theses two areas are the spots that heavily corrode. The rust will actually migrate under the braking surface.

When you get the old rotor off whack the inside surface with a hammer a couple times. You'll be surprised at how much rust is under the relatively smooth braking surface!

[Hookmaster]

For the caliper bracket bolts with Locktite will I need a torch or just muscle?

Any suggestions on brand names for the pads and rotors?

[Big Buck Buster]

For the caliper bracket bolts with Locktite will I need a torch or just muscle?

Any suggestions on brand names for the pads and rotors?

If you have access to a breaker bar, use that to break them loose, and then the ratchet for the rest of the way.

If you have access to an air impact(1/2"), that usually does it for me.

For brand name pads, it will be up to you on how much you want to spend. I would go with the OEM spec pads. I think the SS pads from NAPA are equal, and the semi-metallic from Car Quest are good also. I have the semi-metallic on my '92, and haven't had any problems with brake dust or squealing with them yet. They have great stopping power also. If money isn't an option, go with the ceramic. They will last longer, have great stopping power, but the downside is expense, and they will take out the rotor quicker than the other pads.

[Hookmaster]

I only plan on doing the rear brakes. Is putting ceramic on the rear and not the front a bad thing? Will the parts store know what the OEM spec pads are, semi-metallic, ceramic, etc?

[Jeremy airjer W]

The SS's from NAPA are o.k. but the Adaptive Ones have been a success for us.

[Big Buck Buster]

I only plan on doing the rear brakes. Is putting ceramic on the rear and not the front a bad thing? Will the parts store know what the OEM spec pads are, semi-metallic, ceramic, etc?

Of the parts stores I have delt with, they will tell you what the OEM replacement is, and you can choose from there.

[Big Buck Buster]

The SS's from NAPA are o.k. but the Adaptive Ones have been a success for us.

Are the Adaptive Ones a brand of NAPA? I have not heard of them.

[Hookmaster]

On some of the NAPA rotors they have "Onyx Guard Protectant Prevents Rust & Corrosion On The Rotor's Hat & Vanes & Improves The Vehicle's Appearance." Is this what airjer was talking about?

[Heartman]

Spend some money - the higher priced ones last longer and are substantially cleaner as they wear.

[Big Buck Buster]

On some of the NAPA rotors they have "Onyx Guard Protectant Prevents Rust & Corrosion On The Rotor's Hat & Vanes & Improves The Vehicle's Appearance." Is this what airjer was talking about?

I thought he was referring to a type of brake pad choice.

[Jeremy airjer W]

Are the Adaptive Ones a brand of NAPA? I have not heard of them.

[Big Buck Buster]

Originally Posted By: Big Buck Buster

Are the Adaptive Ones a brand of NAPA? I have not heard of them.

yes

Originally Posted By: hookmaster

On some of the NAPA rotors they have "Onyx Guard Protectant Prevents Rust & Corrosion On The Rotor's Hat & Vanes & Improves The Vehicle's Appearance." Is this what airjer was talking about?

Yup, the squeak relief product is very simular

Thanks, I will have to take a look at them, and get some specs on them as well.

[18 inch Crappie]

Mine did the same thing on my 2000 Sliverado, I just bought new rotors and pads from that place over NE Minneapolis cost me about $120 for everything and 3 hours of my time.

[Hookmaster]

I talked to them yesterday. About $110 for what I need.

[Hookmaster]

My buddy and I put the new rotors on two nights ago (well actually he did most of the work). Only the middle (about one third) of the braking surface on the inside of each rotor was still shiny. Everything else was rust. Also the indicator on the passenger side had just started to make contact. We did it at the right time, 83,900 miles. Hopefully will be good for the rest of the time I own it. Thanks for all the help!!