Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

The ultimate catfish sinker?


Carp-fisher

Recommended Posts

I'm a CAD designer and have access to a CNC machine, a bunch of scrap metal, and a whole lotta time on my hands. I'm going to design a mold for some catfish sinkers. I'm thinking of just going with the bank sinker or no roll design in the 3 to 5 oz size. Anyone have any ideas on a better sinker design...shape, size, features, etc.? If we come up with something good, I'll give away some protos.....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah Team Catfish makes sinker slides or else you can buy small snap swivels and tie smaller mono line (20 lb) from the swivel to the sinker and then open the snap and attach it before your main swivel that way it won't rub on your line and you can break off easy if it gets caught up.

As far as a perfect sinker...I don't think there is one otherwise they wouldn't sell many different kinds. I prefer bank or no-roll.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

how about one that is guaranteed to not get snagged, or lost to the river wink?

we could call it the boomerang sinker, the only thing that you have to worry about is casting it out. DUCK its coming back

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Originally Posted By: pureinsanity
how about one that is guaranteed to not get snagged, or lost to the river wink?

we could call it the boomerang sinker, the only thing that you have to worry about is casting it out. DUCK its coming back

Everyone would be decked out in full body armor!

This 4th of July I was up on mille lacs and was to lazy to retie my muskie rod so I just used my three way rig with some big suckers and ended up getting a large Bowfin on and when I got him out of the water he shook my #4 bank sinker off and it hit my friend in the shin. Left a good mark and hook him down to his knees... Lead hurts frown

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My preferred sinker is the no roll. However, no rolls seem to get wedged into rocks and timber easier than some other types of sinkers. I'd also like an easy way to put on a sinker without retying.

I wonder if something like this would work?

ModifiedNoRollJfloren_Scaled_8-1-09.jpg

I'd like to have two eye hooks on the top of the sinker that could be clipped in. However, I would like the front hook to break out at a lower pound test than the rear hook. When you get a snag the front eye hook would break free and sinker would swivel around so the broad end is closest to the rod. Hopefully this would make it easier to break it out of a wedged snag.

Another, perhaps simpler option, is to have the rear hook molded into the sinker. Of course, then you cannot change the sinker without retying.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now that's an interesting idea. I do see some problems with "clipping" eye hooks into the lead.

I wonder if a sinker could be made that had a groove that you could force fit a piece of rigid plastic tubing in. The line goes through the tube. When the sinker gets wedged in the rocks, you exert a certain amount of force on the tube and it pops out of the groove on the lead. Jam another sinker on and you're ready to go....hmm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here are a couple of options.

The top one just has a hole drilled or molded in the back and a plastic slip out in the front. Of course, this one has to be retied if you want to change sizes.

The second one (with a detail drawing) has a sturdy spring molded in the back and a plastic slip out in the front.

ModifiedNoRoll2_JFloren__Scaled_8-1.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wonder if a sinker could be made that had a groove that you could force fit a piece of rigid plastic tubing in.

That would probably be the easiest to mold, and you could change weight sizes without having to re tie. You may loose more sinkers, but you would not loose as many hooks and swivels.

Would you have to have a dovetail type of groove to keep the plastic tube on fairly tight? If you do need a dovetail groove, could you release the lead from the mold?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've been molding my own bank sinkers for years, usually using any junk lead I have lying around. If I were to tap into my supply of pure lead, usually saved for muzzle loading bullets, the sinkers would be soft and pliable. They could then be whacked with a large hammer right after molding and become a hybred between bank sinker and no-roll. I always tie my bank sinkers to a sliding O ring with light line rather than string them on the main line. If they snag, I only lose the sinker, not the whole rig. A guy fishing next to me in a Carp contest hooked a big one and his sinker got snagged. The closest he ever got that fish to shore was about 10 yards; where his sinker was snagged.(I won)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Now that's an interesting idea. I do see some problems with "clipping" eye hooks into the lead.

I wonder if a sinker could be made that had a groove that you could force fit a piece of rigid plastic tubing in. The line goes through the tube. When the sinker gets wedged in the rocks, you exert a certain amount of force on the tube and it pops out of the groove on the lead. Jam another sinker on and you're ready to go....hmm

yes they already being made I will try to post a pic a little later I have talked with the guy that makes these and he only makes them in sizes up to 2 ozs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There is lots of interesting ideas coming up in this thread. Thanks for all the info! Most of my snags that I have gotten into is below my sinker. Either my line gets wrapped around some branches or my hook digs into the wood. I would much rather lose a hook than a sinker in my opinion. I came up with a solution that so far has worked really well.

I tie my bank sinker solid to my line about an inch or two above my swivel. When and if I do snag I can feel whether its my sinker or my hook snagged. If its just my hook, then when I do break my line it tends to break at the swivel leaving my bank sinker still attached to my line. So far it has worked wonders for me. Just my .02$!

Nick

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.