ok, so I have a older lund alaskan 16' 25hp tiller on a shorelander roller trailer.
Always has been a pain in the butt to load (straight) now on the front of the trailer there is a keel roller, it was shot when we got the boat, so I replaced it, just noticed last night that the bracket was spread apart that holds it and the roller was jamed. When the boat is on the trailer with weight on the rollers, I adjusted the keel roller up to the bottom, put slight pressure up and tightened the bolts, sounds right i think, but now Im wondering if the trailer needs this keel roller, its the first thing the boat hits when Im loading and then the back almost never lines up because the backsets of rollers hardly touch ( This is with the trailer backed up so that the keel roller is just barely submerged so that I can keep it on the roller when I crank other wise it will fall off to one side or the other).. Should I keep the keel roller? Add vertical roller guides on the back to keep the boat lined up? Something doesnt seem right
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Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to
not being the anchor person any more). With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely
that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing.
I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the
new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
Dang, new content and now answers.
First, congrats on the new boat!
My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V. 80 might be tops? I’m partial to MinnKota.
How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.
All weather or just nice weather?
Casting a lot or bait dragging?
Bobber or panfish fishing?
Spot lock? Networked with depth finders? What brand of depth finders?
We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha
motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor, wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will
want for this boat? Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke
Mariner motor) I will appreciate any help with these questions.
I went ahead and watched some of the MLF coverage. Wheeler didn’t make the cut but the bigger story was the Poche/Avera fallout.
Kinda funny listening to both sides of the story and putting together the scenario, reading between the lines.
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Lindyrig81
ok, so I have a older lund alaskan 16' 25hp tiller on a shorelander roller trailer.
Always has been a pain in the butt to load (straight) now on the front of the trailer there is a keel roller, it was shot when we got the boat, so I replaced it, just noticed last night that the bracket was spread apart that holds it and the roller was jamed. When the boat is on the trailer with weight on the rollers, I adjusted the keel roller up to the bottom, put slight pressure up and tightened the bolts, sounds right i think, but now Im wondering if the trailer needs this keel roller, its the first thing the boat hits when Im loading and then the back almost never lines up because the backsets of rollers hardly touch ( This is with the trailer backed up so that the keel roller is just barely submerged so that I can keep it on the roller when I crank other wise it will fall off to one side or the other).. Should I keep the keel roller? Add vertical roller guides on the back to keep the boat lined up? Something doesnt seem right
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