Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Liquid or granular weed-n-feed?


Stickjiggler

Recommended Posts

What works better. I've never used a liquid before but am considering giving it a try this year. Any tips or recomendations of what to use. 15,000 sq.ft. grass in good shape with minimal weeds but a lot of quack.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Most likely, neither product you're going to buy is not going to be labeled for control of Quackgrass.

So far the only one that I know of is a Monsanto product called Certainty. However, unless you have a very calibrated sprayer, you're probably going to have a yard that looks like you sprayed roundup on it. These are just the reports that I've seen on different lawn application websites.

As for the liquid vs granular application, I personally believe the liquid will be the way to go.

With a granular application, you need to do it either early morning when the dew is still on the ground, or right after a rain shower. If you have an irrigation system, then run the system and then do an application as well.

Granular works by having the granuals stick to the leaves of the plant.

With a liquid application, you don't have to worry about the leaf being wet, since you're applying the water.

With either, you want to do the application when it will be dry for 24 hours AFTER the application, which means if you do have an irrigation system that runs every day, make sure it's shut off for a day, or two.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

As far as weed control there is no comparison between liquid and granular. Soaking a weed with a liquid chemical will obviously be far more effective than a few granuals sticking to the plant. Both fertilizers can be very effective with a liquid working much faster but not lasting as long as a slow release granular. The perfect program for me is a liquid in the spring with weed control and pre-emergent to "jolt" the lawn and get it growing and green while killing all the weeds. Summer I do a granular fert. because of the heat. Early fall another shot of liquid fert. and weed control. Late fall granular fertilizer. This program will keep your lawn green and virtually weed free all year maybe having to spot treat a few weeds in between. As for the quack grass as stated above you probably won't get rid of it unless you spray it with round-up and then seed or just get it to blend in as best you can and deal with it, thats what I do..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I gave up on trying to treat the quack grass & ended up just kicking it out. I was tired of dealing with it. That stuff is nasty.

I use granular 3x per year. 1 - pre-emergent after first mowing. 2 - weed & feed 30 days after first application. 3 - winterizer in Sept / Oct. In between, when weeds are active, I spray weed b gone. Some years I do this 2x. It's the mix as you go type in the bottle you hook up to the hose.

I am by no means an expert, but I do have a nice lawn by following this.

Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I wish I could help you there but since I get all my stuff from our company I'm not very familier with non-commercial products.......You may want to consider having a smaller local company treat your lawn for you. It may not be that much more expensive than doing it yourself and from what I have seen over the years it is much more effective. Also less for you to worry about. If you ever do go that route just make sure they gaurantee their service.......Sorry if the sales man is comming out of me there!! smile

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.