Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

where you get your lead?


Recommended Posts

i am planning on starting to make my own jigs and move onto all sorts of tackle eventually. i have been lookin and am gunna to start buying all of the stuff. anyways i heard that tire stores will have extra lead that they are willing to sell, i went to 4 different tire places with no luck as they all had sold their lead for the month. where the heck can i get the stuff?? metal scrapyards??? or should i just keep on going around tire places?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I get mine from gas stations. All wheel weights. They work pretty good and there are stations that will almost give them to you if you know them.

If they are out and will sell it to you for a fair price, ask them to keep some and you will come back. Lead is a little high in price at this time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would stick with soft lead if you want quality castings. Clip on wws are very hard. You can get very good clean soft lead from a well known auction site. It will be delivered to your door. Price will be around 1.00 per pound if you are patient. Soft lead works well(pipe,sheet). Pure is best. Stick on wws are about 97% pure which also casts well. Be safe though. There are many other good threads on this site that discuss the dangers. Your question was where to get it. (added only to keep the thread on topic).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can also chech with some plumbing companies. Plumbers lead is very soft. I started with wheel weights, it takes a bunch, plus you need to spoon off the dirt and the wheel clip. It all floats to the top.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I agree with the plumbers supply for lead. It is pure and soft, and pours details well. Wheel weights contain antimony which makes the alloy harder but does not fill details well (like jig collars).

A trick that I use is to preheat the molds in the oven at 350 degrees for 15 minutes or so. The hot mold gives the lead time to fill the cavity details before freezing up. Be sure to take the wooden handles off if you try this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I preheat my Do-It-Molds in the oven also. I have never taken the handles off and it has worked just fine. You need to wear gloves to hold the mold when its hot also.

Seems once the mold has been used, it keeps plenty warm as long as I keep pouring.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Had a thought when I was putting away my duck hunting dekes in the garage this afternoon.

Can you use waterfowl decoy anchor weights for your lead jigs? The lead in those anchors is pretty soft, I can even bend it with my hands to secure it to the deke's neck.

And they are fairly cheap, I think I paid $5-6 for a 12pack of mushroom shape anchors.

I have never made my own jigs before, but I had a thought when I saw my dekes in the garage today and thought I would post it.

Redbeard5289

Link to comment
Share on other sites

a buddy of mine casts his own 45-70 bullets. He uses wheel weights but adds some solder to it. 10%, I believe. He melts it and then puts it into ingot mold. He got around 700 pounds of the stuff. The salvage yard here quoted him 70 cents a pound if he wanted to sell it. I was thinkin if that works for bullets, it should work for jig heads.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.