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DickUrban

rigging a spring bobber

7 posts in this topic

What is the right way to rig a spring bobber? Should it stick out beyond the rod tip? The spring bobbers I bought are a very thin wire loop.

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There are two schools of thought on that.

One is to keep the spring elevated above the end guide and between the previous guide, forming a raised arch in the line. When you get a bite the spring tip pulls toward the rod tip.
IT342_CCDRW_back-upICEIps24-2_web.jpg
The second is to extend it past to allow for a quivering action. This rigging requires more tuning and many consider it a bit more sensitive.
IT351_CDot_SB_web.jpg

Either work, it is mostly a preference thing.

------------------
Ed "Backwater Eddy" Carlson

Backwater Guiding
"ED on the RED"
backwtr1@msn.com
><,sUMo,>

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Thanks Ed. I guess I still have a question. The eyelets on my rods are on the bottom of the rod. Does that make a difference? Among my ambitions is a trip to the Red and have you show me how to catch "sumo kitties".

[This message has been edited by DickUrban (edited 12-22-2003).]

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I would attach to the end and after feeding the line through your last eyelet then go through the spring bobber. I have tried both ways and running it between can cause problems with line being tangled when the bobber and the last eyelet come to close to each other. It doesn't matter that you're using a spinning rod, just tape the spring to the top of the rod.

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No concerns, it will work the same inverted. Just watch the tip of the spring for it to rise or fall.

I like to balance the weight on the spring indicator to it has a bit of tension on it all the time. That way, if it rises or dips, you see it. Them sneaky light bitters often go either way.

With practice you will see the sucking in of the bait just as easily as a firm grab. If you see something suspicious, set the hook, don't wait.

I watched a group from Iowa perch rangers fish Flu-Flu scented plastics on a 1/32 oz jig with the spring system. They caught perch steady all darn day, while everyone around caught ZIP. I quickly studied their ways and adapted my ways pretty darn quickly. It payed of big for me the next day out. We limited out on sumo perch in 2 hours.

I plan to use the same system soon with Bio-Bait ice bits on a 1/32 oz Rat Finkie/Flossie. I expect it will be deadly on wary sumo perch in fresh water shrimp rich lake systems.

wink.gif

You bet, drop me an e-mail and we can sure set you up with a Sumo Kitty trip to fit your needs. I am now booking 2004 so early is best to lock in the dates you may need.

I don't think spring bobbers will be needed on them though. Unless you make the bobber spring out of a car spring, then they might hold up.

grin.gif

------------------
Ed "Backwater Eddy" Carlson

Backwater Guiding
"ED on the RED"
backwtr1@msn.com
><,sUMo,>

[This message has been edited by Ed Carlson (edited 12-22-2003).]

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Thanks guys. I sure appreciate your help. I live in central Iowa and make 2 trips each winter to Big Winni. Our ice locally gives us only few opportunities close to home.

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To make the spring bobber removable, use heat shrink tubing. Straighten out the little hook on the end of the spring, take the tip guide off, slip the spring bobber thru the tubing and heat it up on the rod then re-install the tip guide now you can add or remove the spring bobber for transport so it dosen't get tweeked or for light biter conditions. Now if that sleeve wants to spin aroung the rod tip, secure it on there with just a touch of sho-goo or goop.

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