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Cargo Trailer Conversion


FishinFools

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The boy and I are planning our Toy hauler/hunt camp/fish house summer project. Just about to pull the trigger on an R&R Deluxe Cargo trailer.

1) Really would like some advice on windows. I like the idea of having R&R install the windows, but they would be single pane (tempered) sliders with a screen. We will have a forced air furnace. Who has this set up? And please tell us straight: is condensation a major problem. (I am sure it would be with ventless heat).

2) flooring: I like the idea of coin rubber flooring, but it's expensive and heavy. Thoughts on a garage floor type roll on finish? (or herculiner)?

Thank you!

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You will hate those windows. Yes, condensation will be a major problem, regardless of heat type.

I've used Herculiner a few times, and it's just okay. The textured surface makes it really hard to get clean. I've done black, but I'd look for more of a gray or tan if I used it in the future. Most likely I'd go with the G Floor if I went away from carpet.

Make sure you use furring strips over the metal studs.

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Thanks LRG.

We went with some thermal pane windows. Thanks for your advice. Furring strips over aluminum: do you mean the window rough-in should be trimmed out with wood? I was planning on wood shims for sure.

For interior siding, I found some 1/4" x 3" cedar T&G wall covering. I thought this would save some weight verses the thicker cedar boards. I will insulate between the aluminum structural members, cover with 3/8" ply and then cover that with the 1/4" nailed on. Sounds a bit flimsy to me. What are your thoughts on that approach?

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Furring strips go over the metal studs, between your interior finishing and stud. They act as a thermal break to help cut down on condensation and cold transfer. With metal studs, you absolutely need them.

I ran mine horizontally (across) the metal studs, but you can also do vertically (on the entire face).

0A0F8649-75E5-4755-B046-6AD43BEBACBE-464

In your case, I'd skip the 3/8" plywood covering and rip 3/4" plywood furring strips 1-1 1/2" wide. You'll cut down quite a bit on weight, and the 1/4" or 5/16" tongue and groove is plenty strong on its own (without a backer). I personally prefer the horizontal furring strips, since it cuts down on the area of direct thermal transfer, compared to covering the entire stud.

If you are doing spray foam, spray between the furring strips, and if you are doing board foam, use 1/2" or 3/4" in between. Like this:

F796FACF-2D9D-4560-BE8D-2F10F012A971-210

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Progress report: trailer will be ready for pick up the week of April 13!! We have been busy spending money: and running out of storage space: range/oven, furnace, ripped furring strips, had a cool idea for fishing seats (will post, almost done) ordered bench/bunk cushions, tank hardware/etc, building bunks/benches. Pre-finish cedar siding soon. Looking for comments on what to use for that...

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Planning the LP gas system for our project. Anyone see anything in this pic that causes concern? The "t" inside an accessible cabinet under the stove, for example. Non-metallic hose inside that same compartment? I have seen some pics on this site of fish house builds that do not meet my interpretation of parts of NFPA 1192. Is it a requirement that a fish house be built to this standard in MN? full-37278-54669-gaslayout.jpg

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Sleeves. Loving the torsion axles. Smooth tow!

some pics, hmmm. Here are a few.  We have installed a the interior and recently removed it all (now that holes are drilled and tapped as required) sanded and applied a second coat of polyurethane .  

 

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Found something that might interest you. Catch Cover is coming out with a 9" extension for campers or trailers that don't lower to the ice. You use it in conjunction with their hole sleeves. I don't see it on their page yet but it was in the new product brochure.

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Holes cut, flooring installed, catch covers are in!! I did end up putting a bead of exterior caulk between the flooring and the catch cover flange.  I have not, however, decided if I will hot stuff foam around the cutout in the insulation in the floor.  When I used the sawz all to cut the holes, the blade tipped out and made kind of a conical cut out, large diameter down. So I could easily foam it and probably will, but how often does one need to remove and replace a catch cover? Sure would be a bear with caulk and the foam.  Any comments?

image.jpg

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The reason I asked where you got the T&G is , I bought some at menards and I didn't care for it because the V grove isn't very deep on the edge of the boards, looked more like the cedar paneling they sell. I was hoping the stuff from Home Depot was better.

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26.25" table width.  39" long. Been looking for a solid cherry or ? Table on Craig's list.  Got a quote on a custom laminate number and I'm not going that route.  Solid wood sounds easy to work with.  

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