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Strikemaster modification

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Was wondering if anyone has ever taken the governor off a strikemaster auger. I have a 3hp model and the governor consists of a small extended piece of metal that blocks the throttle from opening up all the way. From the looks of it, its set about 3/4 open at full throttle from the factory. With a file you could take it right off there and then solder the relief spring to the carb housing so you get the back pressure when you let go of the throttle lever. Looks to be an easy way to get some more power out of the 3 hp.

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You dont want to take the Governor off.
When your engine starts to lug the Governor will give the engine more air and gas. Your throttle isnt opening all the way because it gives whats left to the Governor. Believe me when its under load the throttle is wide open. In fact you can tell by the sound of the engine when your Governor kicks in.
With it off your RPM's will be to way to high with no load. This will cause engine damage and for sure you will puke out the gear box. These gear box's aren't made to go like hell.

[This message has been edited by Surface Tension (edited 02-24-2003).]

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I've also noticed my XL3000 cuts better at slow/moderate rpms. I once rigged it to run faster several years ago, before I knew better, but turning faster yielded slower holes because the blades tended to skid over the ice instead of digging in.

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I was told by a mechanic,that there is a silver covered plug that is a knock off cover,to a adjustment screw.Any truth to that?? My 3 hp lazer runs kind of crappy also.I bought it new,always used the small bottle of mixing oil that is made for the strikemaster,and one gallon of premium gasoline.
I have been playing around with the adjusting screws,without much difference in performance.Have not knocked out the plug,yet.

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I dont know about any pluged screws on a auger. I know in the 70's they started to cap off automobile carbs adjustments .

Whats happening with augers is the same thing that happened with snow machines in the 70's.
They got popular then broke down. No one knew how to adjust a carb let alone clean and rebuild one. So they sat there.
That along with the fact that augers arent like jumping into your car and turning a key. You have to dick around with them.

[This message has been edited by Surface Tension (edited 02-24-2003).]

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Bigfoot are you talking about the knock out cover over the adjustment screws on the carb. For about 2 years that is how the carbs came and to do and adjusting you had to knock this out with a screw driver. The problem is that if it wasn't done by a dealer it voided your warrenty. They have since went away from that style and know they have little red limiter caps on them. Now one of those screws is a jet nozzle that can't be adjusted but I believe that the screw to the right as you look at the carb is the only adjustment that can be made or else the idle adjustment on the top of the carb. I hope this helps a little.

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