Guests - If You want access to member only forums on HSO. You will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up on HotSpotOutdoors.

It's easy - LOOK UPPER right menu.

  • Announcements

    • Rick

      Members Only Fluid Forum View   08/08/2017

      Fluid forum view allows members only to get right to the meat of this community; the topics. You can toggle between your preferred forum view just below to the left on the main forum entrance. You will see three icons. Try them out and see what you prefer.   Fluid view allows you, if you are a signed up member, to see the newest topic posts in either all forums (select none or all) or in just your favorite forums (select the ones you want to see when you come to Fishing Minnesota). It keeps and in real time with respect to Topic posts and lets YOU SELECT YOUR FAVORITE FORUMS. It can make things fun and easy. This is especially true for less experienced visitors raised on social media. If you, as a members want more specific topics, you can even select a single forum to view. Let us take a look at fluid view in action. We will then break it down and explain how it works in more detail.   The video shows the topic list and the forum filter box. As you can see, it is easy to change the topic list by changing the selected forums. This view replaces the traditional list of categories and forums.   Of course, members only can change the view to better suit your way of browsing.   You will notice a “grid” option. We have moved the grid forum theme setting into the main forum settings. This makes it an option for members only to choose. This screenshot also shows the removal of the forum breadcrumb in fluid view mode. Fluid view remembers your last forum selection so you don’t lose your place when you go back to the listing. The benefit of this feature is easy to see. It removes a potential barrier of entry for members only. It puts the spotlight on topics themselves, and not the hierarchical forum structure. You as a member will enjoy viewing many forums at once and switching between them without leaving the page. We hope that fluid view, the new functionality is an asset that you enjoy .
Sign in to follow this  
Bigguyone

Pike on Vermillion - the BIG "V"

Recommended Posts

I am planning a trip up to Vermillion May30-June 6th...we are traveling 1000+miles in search of some Pike, smallies and eyes.

I am looking for some insight/assistance on where and how to get into the pike on Vermillion...if you have some smallie assistance I would appreciate it too.

THANK YOU very much and feel free to email me at Dustin@freemydollars.com if you would prefer not to post in the "open." Thank you VERY MUCH!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What part of the lake are you staying on Bigguyone?

My favorite bait/tactic to use on Vermilion is a Northland Willow leaf spinnerbait with a twistertail trailer.

Find some submerged weeds (coontail or cabbage) and position your boat so that you are casting up the deep edge. Vary your retrieve from just skimming the surface to 18" under.

If that isn't producing fish, go shallower back into the bays and work the "junk weed". These areas are usually good for numbers of fish, but tends to lack in size.

Good Luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

We are staying at Shamrock.

Have an 18' 150hp boat so can run the lake as needed.

Spinnerbaits are the lure of choice for me usually as well for pike - sure I will throw them a lot.

I do wanna try to build some confidence in soft swimbaits like the hollow belly on a darter head - almost using it like a "soft crank."

Any certain areas of the lake you recommend for pike?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Would love to chase the skies but the two reasons that is not the focus is - 2 of the 3 guys have never fished MN, and 2 of them have never caught a pike or ski over 32"....so just to get them into pike will be easier to get their technique down I think...my luck they will inadvertently hook into a 52" ski while throwin for pike...we will see how they do - LOL

Also we have more skies in Utah than we do pike...already boated a nice one for the season and only threw for skies about 2 hours - he went 20.5lbs and in 2.4' of water...good times. It was on a tiny "pond" only about 130acres that the state put them in there a few years back.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hello,

Just got back from Vermillion yesterday and the best area for Pike for us was on a windy day (5/19), we were running a drift from the so. side of Gull island toward Van Ryper bay in Vermillion. It seemed when we would get into about 12 fow, the Northerns would hit, we got about 5 of them from 26 - 34 inches on lindy's. We also had some walleye's hitting there too--there was a lot of fish being pushed that way in the tide. Wind gusts were up to 20-25mph and we were riding the caps, but man they were hitting.

Barry

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  



  • Posts

    • Nilight Led Light Bar 2PCS 18w 4" Flood Driving Fog Light Off Road Lights Boat Lights driving lights Led Work Light SUV Jeep Lamp,2 years Warranty https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IY3YLCI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Pj75zbQ34AMAQ
    • Last weekend I switched out my ramp door for a bay window.  I'd like to spray foam it, but I'm sure I won't be able to find anyone willing to do it professionally in my area, at least not at a reasonable price.  Last winter I had to drive an hour and a half to get the rest of it spray foamed for about $2000.  One company told me they wouldn't fire up their equipment for less than 1800. For this small of an area I'm thinking I would be just fine with the foam boards @ 2-3/4" thick with the furring.  Otherwise, does anyone know how well those Menards Froth Packs work?  $360 still seems kind of spendy to spray foam that little area myself.  
    • That's awesome. I gave mine a test last night and they weren't bright enough. I might have to order some bright lights from Amazon. 
    • Looking good! I also wanted reverse lights. I used some of the really bright light bars from Amazon on mine.  
    • I would fur it out another inch, then spray foam and finish to the furring strips.  No vapor barrier needed at that point.
    • Use 1x2 (actually 3/4"x1 1/2") PVC trim boards for firring strips on the face of studs. The PVC won't absorb any moisture and works well as a thermo break from the aluminum studs. They can be found at any of the big box lumber stores.
    • Moisture is likely condensing on the metal studs and being transferred to the paneling. Furring strips will probably be the best bet with metal studs. You can run them horizontal or vertical and then just attach the paneling to that. I personally wouldn't use a vapor barrier. Some guys do though. 
    • I have a 6.5x14 Ultra Shack. I'm guessing was built early 2000s. Had to tear apart interior walls due to moisture build up. Steel frame, with aluminum 1.5x1.5 or 1"x1" tube studs. Previously insulated with pink board foam between studs, with a thin quarter inch thick foam pad glued to the studs, then paneling glued over the top of it all. I'm thinking the issue was no vapor barrier? I have it all torn apart down to the studs. Wondering how I should finish it, use a vapor barrier such as poly? Or no vapor barrier? Any help is appreciated! Thanks!  -Nate
    • Check striker's page.  They have some of last years stuff onsale.
    • It's been awhile since I've had time to upload pictures. There has been a lot of progress made!  The siding is up and finished! The process was more difficult to manage with the bends and my lack of tape measure skill lol If i were to do the bends again I would make sure to order 2 sheets extra and order them at the length required to wrap the entire house. From the point on the nose all the way back to the middle of the rear wall. There ended up being vertical seams along the sides here, which in hind sight, isn't ideal.  One thing that i'm not sure I've noted is the bottom white trim. A lot of people use J- Channel on the bottom but you can order a trim called a step down. Which works awesome around the lower edges and doesn't fill up with ice and snow.  The trailer lights are all wired up and working. Seeing whats back behind these big trailers always drives me crazy so i bought the ones with reverse lights built in.  The maiden voyage was out into the parking lot and then back into the shop. It didn't fall apart so it was a success.  I took a few pictures of the bending process. It was a pretty simple setup. A big piece of angle aluminum secured between 2 - 2x4's with 2 clamps a bar and a big hammer worked really well. If you're going to do this make sure to add half of the rib height to whatever the measurement you're trying to hit is. And as i mentioned before, buy the length to wrap the house from the front point all the way to the middle of the rear wall.  We would clamp the bar down then hit it with the hammer to "break" the corrugations. Once they were broken it bent extremely easy.  We also got most of the lighting on the inside roughed in. I have 4 110 outlets and 2 USB plug ins for cell phone/misc charging. All of the lighting will run on 12V. I'm no engineer but, each of the lights in the picture draw 240mA so with them all on I'm thinking i'll get about 30 hours of run time on one battery. There will be 2 batteries for lighting and USB and a separate one for the heater so I should be ok for a weekend "off the grid". I'll have a generator as well to run the TV and other goodies which can charge the batteries as well.  I also picked up the material for the interior. Menard's is having their 11% sale until 10/21/17 and also a sale on their 5/16" Cedar tongue and groove. Between the two sales I got the price down to just under $1 per square foot. Apparently, they aren't stocking this specific Cedar anymore so I had to buy 3 different stores out of stock to get all that I needed. In the end I still didn't have enough to do the roof so i bought some Birch plywood to finish that part. I think a lighter ceiling will help the place feel a little bigger anyways. I got antsy last night and finished some of the cedar boards with Natural Finish Watco Danish Oil. It turned out to be the exact look I was going for. From what I've read i think finishing them all before installation is the way to go. Then once everything is up doing a quick coat of Danish to even everything out.  At this point i'm counting the Steps left to go instead of how many I have done! It's getting close to starting the fun part ( the interior). I'll keep everyone posted on the progress! 
  • Our Sponsors