Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

"New" Bike Issues


hooksetter

Recommended Posts

I just bought a 1983 kawasaki 550 LTD. It was dirty and sort of a mess but the price was right and it did clean up pretty well. I have 2 issues that I hope are either easy fixes or a result of my inexperience.

The first is a knocking when the engine is cold at low idle. It does go away after I ride and the engine warms up.

The second is that it doesn't seem to shift into the high gears. At low RPMs I can get it to shift into all gears but at 45 mph I am at 6000 RPMs. That doesn't seem right to me.

Any suggestions? Thanks!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok first let me start by saying I am not a bike mech but I have had some time working and listing with bikes and bike savey people. The the knocking when the engine is cold could be just a lag time in oil getting to everything that it needs to get to, and then when it "warms up" the oil is in the right places!

With the shifting, do you here and feel it shift into gears? If so it is a smaller bike by todays standards and it is more than likely a higher reving engine so it could very well be in gear and running fine but sound different because it is made to be a higher reving higher RPM running motor.

Ok so maybe this will help and maybe not, just my 2 cents. Enjoy the ride and maybe the weather will even start to get better for us someday!!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I guess I'd have to hear it, but it could be as simple as a cam chain tension adjustment.

But 6000 at 45? That sounds way too high....should be 5 gears, can you feel each one? Have either of the chain sprockets been changed?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm with Macgyver on this one when he mentions cam chain tension. However, when it's cold outside (below 40) my 99 Shadow knocks a bit for about 20 seconds until things warm up.

Are you running 20-50 oil? If the oil was changed and just 10-30 or 10-40 was put in (this is more common than you may realize) you're going to get a knock.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

 Originally Posted By: Macgyver55
I guess I'd have to hear it, but it could be as simple as a cam chain tension adjustment.

But 6000 at 45? That sounds way too high....should be 5 gears, can you feel each one? Have either of the chain sprockets been changed?

I agree. My brother had an older Yamaha Maxim X which was a 750 and that thing was running higher rpms at a faster speeds. It was a little buzzy by nature, but 6XXX at 45 mph does sound a little too high to me.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The guy did put 10-40 oil in it when he changed the oil right before I got it. I should probably change it out along with a filter.

How tough is it to check the cam chain tension? I have a service manual (Clymers) so I'll check there when I get home but would be interested in hearing from someone who has done it.

The bike has six gears and at slow speeds I can hear it go into each at slow speeds and on the stand but it still does not seem right.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

the proper oil will also help the shifting.

Although ATV's are a different animal, I had a machine that was suppose to run synthetic oil, but I went cheap on an oil change and put the cheap stuff in. It never did shift right after that until I went back to the synthetic.

Don't get me wrong, I'm not recommending you run synthetic in the bike, just making a point to run the suggested viscosity. As mentioned above, I would go with the 20-50.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Some older Kaws and Hondas had AWFUL cluth basket rattle, and that combined with improper oil could be culprit. Does the knock stop if you pull in the clutch? You have to run a specific motorcycle oil in bikes because the oil also lubes the wet clutch. DO NOT use a regular automotive oil that says "energy conserving". They have additives that are too slippery to use in mc clutches.

I think that may be your problem. Cluth rattle at idel and slippage at higher rpms, seeming like you should have another gear when actually the clutch is slipping.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Right on with most everything. The rattle at idle when cold is there whether the clutch is pulled in or not. My brother drove it (much harder than I do!) and said that the clutch is slipping a bit so I am definitely going to change the oil and filter in the next day or two.

Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Truly sorry to hear that duffman! I know that feeling.  Keep the good memories  
    • Chamois passed away this weekend a couple days short of her 13th bday. What a great dog to hang out with here at home and on distant adventures. Gonna miss ya big time my little big girl.
    • Sounds pretty sweet, alright. I will check them out, thanks.
    • If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets.  Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome.  You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.   24V 80lb.  60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat.  They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
    • Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to not being the anchor person any more).  With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing. I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
    • Dang, new content and now answers.   First, congrats on the new boat!   My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V.  80 might be tops?  I’m partial to MinnKota.     How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.     All weather or just nice weather?   Casting a lot or bait dragging?   Bobber or panfish fishing?   Spot lock?  Networked with depth finders?  What brand of depth finders?
    • We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor,  wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will want for this boat?  Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke  Mariner motor)  I will appreciate any help with these questions.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.