troyspitzer Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 I'm in the process of building my first ice rods. I ordered an assembled rod from Thorne Brothers and 2 extra blanks,handles and guides. So far I've built the handles. I used a makeshift lathe to cut a lip on the cork so it recessed under the reel seat. Is that a good idea? After I get these 2 blanks done, what should I use for components. I assume I'll use more Thorne Bros blanks, but what about guides? It appears TB step down to a small fly rod guide? Does anyone use SIC or titanium framed guides? They are more expensive, but you use so few of them, the cost can be justified. Is the first guide out from the reel a "high frame" guide? I spaced the guides only slightly different than the thorne built rod. My rod is 30in., and I had them make a 28in, so I just spaced things out a tick more. I put a reel on, but since I don't know what "looks right", it's hard for me to judge.I've got an interesting idea about a handle. I used a downlocking fuji handle, but shortened it. It will go on the next blank.Does anyone know where can I find 1/8 or no hole cork? On a Jason Mitchell meat stick I broke and disassembled, I found they used 1/4 drilled cork and built up the whole blank with mesh tape, then put a butt cap and winding check on so you wouldn't see it. 1/8 drilled cork should be better.I've got some photos, but not sure how to post them. I think I need to use a host site. Maybe I could just email them to one of you guys and you could post them?Like everyone says, it is addictive. When I started looking at the FM site, I didn't even know I wanted to build a rod, and now I'm in the process of doing it.Thanks guys.Troy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
upnorth Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 Quote:I spaced the guides only slightly different than the thorne built rod. My rod is 30in., and I had them make a 28in, so I just spaced things out a tick more. I put a reel on, but since I don't know what "looks right", it's hard for me to judge. Best thing to do to check guide spacing is to tape the guides in place and put a reel in the seat and run the line through the guides and put some pressure on it. Look at how the line runs through the guides and make sure the line follows the blank with no real sharp angles. The action of the blank plays heavily on where to place guides. Cutting a recess for the grip won't hurt anything as long as the cork doesn't get too thin.When it comes to components it is a personal choice. I use hialoy guides on mine and they seem to work fine, and I have heard any complaints from folks I have built ice rods for.I have not found cork anywhere with less than 3/16" hole. But a web search may find something. Check out the photography forum you find a guide on how to post pictures there explaining how to post pics. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dark Cloud Posted March 12, 2008 Share Posted March 12, 2008 Troy - another overlooked option for ice rods guides is single foot wire fly guides. To some they look "cheaper" but I love em on ultralite panfish rods. They help keep things nice and light and the rod wont flop around as much as with heavier guides. I'll start with a high frame recoil type guide then taper down to the smallest fly guide. Im not worried about ice up as if its cold enough to be freezing up im inside a trap. And they work fine with 1 and 2# test... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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