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Mod. Sled question?


Shack

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Thanks Rusty. You have a great mod.. I got some ideas. Thanks.

I guessed and was correct at making a frame 10 1/4" open.

I got a good go on my Mod. tonight. I know you guys have seen this stuff a hundred times now, but here is some pics. She is starting out.

Tonights main theme was structure and some lay out.

SP0vK0VHdyvQ63JwrOMtNh7rvTkkahqr0300.jpg

Here is some of the stuff I am getting together. A couple of trips to garage attic.

O6RB+m2y+zz1pU5YIFBD3g-PtHb5M6GU0300.jpg

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I think like most of you guys, I am ordering some Hong Kong stuff. I have a little bit togo, before Hong Kong time. Thanks for the tips.

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I know you guys have seen this stuff a hundred times now, but here is some pics.


Looking at pictures of mods never gets old, it keeps the ideas fresh for those of us who have yet to do their modifications. grin.gif Thanks for posting them!

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Wow! You totally save the same dump that I do. It was like looking at picture of my junk boxes in the garage. Garage door hinge, store door springs, window lock, closet door handles, door hinges, etc. I save the same stuff, you never know when you might use it.

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I modified my older style Voyager 3 years ago and learned some lessons.

* added weight I ended up with was a pain without having a sled or ATV to pull it with that first year

* shelf space is more important up front than minnow bucket accessibility

* I like having secure storage for my auger inside and having a place to store my seats too

* rod holder tubes were a joke and added more headache than value

* I need a designated fish hauling/storage area

* need a Frabill bucket instead of this uninsulated bucket

Here's a peek at what I did:

Fall04_061.sized.jpg

Fall04_056.sized.jpg

I think I'm going to redo my mods altogether this year to improve usability and weight. I may replace my seats with newer, more comfy seats too. Since these pics I added LED lights and additional battery storage, which I'd like to improve on like rusty's setup.

Some of the mods I've seen on FM don't have storage for these things? Anyway, thanks for sharing guys - you've got my wheels turning again.

Blaze

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• added weight I ended up with was a pain without having a sled or ATV to pull it with that first year


Rule number one for me. This is a redo mod for me also. If you had seen my mod before, it weighed pretty well. I learned to deal and over come with this weight size, so if I can stick to under my original weight I will be cool with that.

Quote:


• shelf space is more important up front than minnow bucket accessibility


This is very true. My bait bucket will be located center rear. I am building a center console of sorts, with storage, cup holders, ash tray, and other elec. stuff at fingers reach.

Quote:


• I like having secure storage for my auger inside and having a place to store my seats too


I am looking for instant access for auger (first item to pull out). Also most times (besides early ice and late ice), I am pulling around in SUV and throw auger on rear rack of tuck. But behind a 4 wheeler or snowmobile (if I do not have an auger holder on them), I would like it right on top. I have been thinking of putting an auger rack behind seat and building it up a little higher and making it removable (as not to hit swivel seats). That is a work in progress. I like your idea of the hiding seats, but I think I am leaving mine right stuck on. I am looking at making the plat form seat is fixed to as a tilt forward access hatch to forward storage.

Quote:


• rod holder tubes were a joke and added more headache than value


Thanks for this tip.

Quote:


• I need a designated fish hauling/storage area

* need a Frabill bucket instead of this uninsulated bucket


Thanks for these little tips.

Over all I like your mod. It has given me some more ideas and some more in site.

Thanks for sharing.

Any modified shack is cool to look at.

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Hooksetter,

I started out with a square wood frame (screwed together) and custom fitted the top square frame in at correct height and levelness. I then install black lag screws and washers about a foot apart around top main frame (cut off little excess with hack saw). Then went around and custom fitted the legs (a couple more now since picture was taken) and then started framing the inner super structure. One of a couple idea's I stole from McGurk, was the 45 deg. cut off in the front of sled. Makes it sit nice and neat right in their. This is a must.

I am currently starting the inside dividers and rear storage compartments. I am working from the bottom up. I want to hide as much wiring and brackets as possible, but have full access to almost every thing from the driver’s seat (when sitting in seats, the one to the left).

Broman,

You betch ya man. I have saving this stuff for some thing and keep it organized.

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Quote:

I am looking for instant access for auger (first item to pull out). Also most times (besides early ice and late ice), I am pulling around in SUV and throw auger on rear rack of tuck. But behind a 4 wheeler or snowmobile (if I do not have an auger holder on them), I would like it right on top.


You're right - easy access is important with the auger. I usually pull my Voyager with my snowmobile, and it's usually a pretty good trek out to the places I want to fish. I keep my Fishtrap cover on when I'm haulin' across the lake to keep the snow/slush out. I don't have an auger mount on my sled, but once I get an ATV, I plan on carrying it on the rack.

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I had thoughts of putting a custom auger holder on my otter (atv style, but fab high extension up in air and make it removable). I have since then thought about laying it right on top, like always. I might go with the otter cover, so this idea would not work the best with the cover.

I was going to do some grouse hunting today with my kids, but I think I am going to head down and further my sled mod... I sat and exchanged ideas with brother in-law yesterday at in-laws and want to go further while stuff is still fresh in head.

Here was a shot from Tues night on more super structure. Wednesday night, I finshed the hatch covers and started hinge situation. Today I hope to start some inner compartment enclosing, center console and some changes I found already.

WXLAdXSyM47yHwDsJl0G23C59fYFWc+P0300.jpg

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Here are a couple of pics of mine from last year.Im thinking about some changes.First I think I will replace all 2X2 with alum angle iron,and the deviders with some alum sheets I have,the alum will be pop riveted together.Im not sure if the alum stock I have is strong enough for the deck,I will have to check it out it may work if I can support in a couple of places where the chairs mount.I hope to start soon but work is cutting into my spare time so it may not get done befpre first ice then it will have to wait till seasons done.

[image]HPIM1239.jpg[/image]

[image]HPIM1241.jpg[/image]

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I forgot ,as far as the auger I have a small otter that i pull behind the big otter,also a place for minnow bucket and other small things,also why I want to redo the big otter and reduce weight.Its not bad pulling by hand as long as there isnt to much snow,by then I can use the quad

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    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
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