Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Dog First Aid Kit


Wormdrowner

Recommended Posts

Here's what I have in mine:

Vet wrap (or horse wrap, the stuff that only sticks to itself)

gauze

tweezers

Aspirin ( not ibuprofen )

eye drops and q-tips (getting seeds out of eyes)

wire cutter

scissors

EMT gel (wont go anywhere without it)

nail trimmer

1" hockey tape

thermometer

Benadryl

10cc syringe and various needles

styptic powder ( helps on pad cuts a little better than EMT gel)

extra collar and 2 6' leashes

needles with tread (for emergency temporary wound closure, could use stapler instead)

This is probably more than a guy would need, but I think I could handle most emergencies pretty well.

At the end of the day I check each of the dogs over pretty thoroughly before feeding them. Checking eyes and pads very well then a quick overall check of the rest for cuts and burrs. A seed in the third eyelid or a small burr in mouth nose or foot can make a dog pretty miserable if left till the next day. My dogs feet are pretty well conditioned so I don't use boots, but after they eat at night in the early season I will give them some aspirin to help with soreness.

CW

Link to comment
Share on other sites

DONT FORGET YOUR SKUNK KIT!!! I basically bring a bottle of hydrogen peroxide, some baking soda, and dawn dish detergent. There are recipes found on the net that work WAY WAY WAY better than anything you can find in a store, and the tomato juice thing is a joke!!

Also...Keep a note book with number for Vets in the area you will be hunting.

Something else that might be helpful is a pair of locking tweezers, and maybe a muzzle or something to secure your dog from biting you while you are pulling quills out of its face wink.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote:

Also...Keep a note book with number for Vets in the area you will be hunting.


Very good point!!

I have everything listed above (besides a muzzle)

To add to the list:

-Duct tape

-rubbing alcohol. Rubbing alcohol is a very effective cooling agent when used on the underside and pads of the dog. This would be for emergency cases, but I carry a small bottle on me in in the field just in case, and have two big jugs in the truck. Just rub a light amount on the dog....you don't need to douse the dog with it. The evaporation of the alcohol is what helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Quote:

Thanks for all the advice guys, some things I would not have thought to bring. Is the EMT gel used for minor cuts? where would you purchase it. Also where do you get the Vet/horse wrap?


EMT gel is a topical gel used on for small cuts and scrapes. When it first came out I tried it on a cut on myself and it worked pretty good. Its a thick form of collagen which is the stuff in you blood that makes it clot. I dont know if a vet clinic would have it, but I get mine at Fleet Farm. Same with the vet wrap. Vet wrap is a elastic type 3" wide tape that will only stick to itself. It works great for holding bandages. A little shake of pepper on the vet wrap will keep the dog from chewing it off on long rides to the Vet. It is a very good point that a local vet # is probably just as important as anything you could bring with.

One other hint for dog boots: put a few wraps of vet wrap on the leg, then use tape to secure the boots that way you don't pull hair out when removing the tape.

CW

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.