Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Blue or Pink styrofoam insulation for the floor?


broman

Recommended Posts

I am planning on putting styrofoam on the floor of my wheelhouse between two sheets of green treated plywood.

I thought I had read a previous post that mentioned that the blue styrofoam was waterproof compared to the pink. Is that true? Does it matter which one I get?

By the way, I'm following the pics of Kylersk's fishhouse for the construction of my own. Great pics Kylersk !!! They have helped me alot. I might start posting some of my own progress soon.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I really don't think there is a difference between Blue & Pink rigid insulation other than who manufactures it.

Blue is manufactured by Dow Chemical under the Styrofoam name.

Pink is manufactured by Owens Corning under the Foamular name.

They are both a type of insulation called Extruded Polystyrene, which is way different from the stuff "styrofoam" cups, plates, minnow buckets, etc.

R-Value is exactly the same, R-5 per 1".

Both these rigid insulations are good in applications where moisture is present- foundation insulation, fish houses, etc.

Most of the white insulation is cheaper, doesn't like water, and has less R-value.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would see how dense, or hard the different colors are before I bought any. I know the white is soft and likes to break easy. The blue is pretty darn tought, My thinking is the denser or harder the better because the floor won;t have much give. just my thoughts.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Looks like I'll go pink or blue, but not white.

My cousin custom welded the frame. With the 3/4" green treated decking, new wheels, 2 electric winches, tongue, pins, leaf springs, etc, etc, it cost about $1000 to build.

There is a great deal on one on hsolist (if still available). It's a 7x14 (probably 6.5 x 14) with a v nose front, which makes it a little longer. Check it out. He was only asking $1000. It's brand new from Northern Tool purchased this year. I called him and asked him a few questions about it for curiousitys sake.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Make sure to check out the load rating on the Northern Tool trailers. The ones I looked at were only rated to 1500 lbs!!! It doesn't take much equipment to weight that much. Just a FYI!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not sure if they changed it, but the other thing I don't like about the Northern trailers is the lack of suspension.

A note about the different foams. For the purposes of insulation, The yellow, pink and blue foams are the same. EPS foam. They are a 2 lb density foam which means a cubic foot weighs 2 lbs. EPS foam has great moisture resistant properties and is probably the best option for preformed foam (4x8 sheets, etc...)

The white bead foam you find at most, if not all home centers is a 0.5 lb density foam. It has almost no crush resistance, absorbs water if exposed (floor) and as mentioned before, doesn't have the R value that the EPS foam has.

Thought it'll cost more, the EPS foam is by far your best option between home store foams. Better R value, superior moisture resistance and overall better for the health of your house.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've designed entire homes on extruded poly shallow frost protected foundations (blue or pink). It's the only way to go. The white (expanded poly) is for coffee cups and packing materials.

Hanson was paying attention in Mr Henry's class. cool.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

my now ten year old house has the white stuff in the floor. and it has served me well. the better stuff was not in the budget at the time. if i were to build a new one today, i would probably rethink a few things and one would be to go with a full two inches of the better stuff, rather than the 3/4 i have now. ... paul

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I forgot to mention that the core material of the hovercraft in my pic is 100% pink foam. When used in a composit structure, it's a great core material. This works with laminating wood or aluminum to it as well. A person could build their house walls by gluing pannels of alum. or wood to the foam and have a stud-less house. Of course, not all men would relish the thought of a "stud-less" house grin.gif But, it would work great! smirk.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What you're looking for is foam board adhesive. It's safe for styrene foam which includes extruded polystyrene (pink, blue, etc..) and white bead foam. However, I wouldn't use it for lamination construction. See below.

If I end up going down that road, I'm going to use epoxy to laminate the skin to the foam, then vacuum bag each pannel. I would not recommend this route for the novice, but it'll create a bomb proof structure. This route does cost more, but I should never have to worry about the structure delaminating and it should last for years and years if properly taken care of.

Once skin delams from the core material, you're strength is pretty much toast. So, keep that in mind when using the foam board adhesive...

If a person wanted to use polyester or Vinylester resin, you can use urethane foam, the same stuff that has the foil coating (minus the foil) It won't melt with polyester resin like styrene foam will, and the resin is cheaper. The downside is that the foam is usually more expensive than pink and white foam, so you have to figure that into the cost.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.