Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Shore fishing for rainbows now


BIG ISLAND DUDE

Recommended Posts

Anyone have any tips on shorefishing for rainbows right now. I am in northern minnesota and want to fish a small deep lake(kremer lake). What kind of bait should I use? The lake gets pretty deep pretty quick, would a slip bobber rig work? Help please. thanx

Link to comment
Share on other sites

i found out this stuff works real well, if theres rainbows around they will hit it. buy this gulp nightcrawlers stuff, just cut it in half and put it on the bottom, they will hit it so hard its just tons of fun. good luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

find out at what depth the thermocline on kremer lake is (hint: DNR lakefinder). Set your slipknot for your slip-bobber about 1-2 feet above the depth at which the water stratifies. Find the deepest part of the lake. Look for any structure near that area in the lake, like a point, sunken island, reef, channel, etc. Target those areas.

Rig up your line with whatever bait you want (I agree, gulp nightcrawlers are a good choice) and wait for a strike. If your bobber lays flat when you get a hit, your too high, so lower your slipknot just a bit until you get to the desired depth.

Even in a coldwater lake, summer temps will make the water temps in the shallow areas undesireable for trout in the dead of summer. There may be a brief periosd in the day when they may feed in the shallows, but it is usally quite brief and no more than an hour, usually right at sunrise. If all else fails, don't be afraid to change tactics and search out the water at different depths for those fish.

On a side note, if you are planning on releasing your fish, take caution, mortality rates on released trout during the summer mounths are quite high, due to increased stress from high water temps. Trout that come from deep water or a thermocline area have a difficult time surviving when brought to the warm surface water rapidly. Rapidly means any means other than their own power. Many trout fisherman practicing C&R for stream trout in lakes, often choose not to target trout during the hot summer months. Just food for thought.

Good Luck!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good info, JP. It's all true, however I've found that it's tough to make them bite when they're hanging out above the TC. They tend to be somewhat lethargic. Which leads me to ask two questions:

1. At what temp to trout tend to move back to the deep? I was fishing last year on a lake where the surface temp was ~67 and found limited success. This year, I was on a different lake where the temp started at 77 at daybreak and moved up to 79 at midday. We had to start shallow and move progressively deeper throughout the morning, finally ending up ~25 ft. About the same results.

2. As we move through the summer into fall, do the trout move back to the shallows, and how is the bite? I would like to go back and try one of these lakes in the fall, but I'm still learning about trout and I'm wondering if I would have success, or if I would just be wasting my time. confused.gif

Thanks,

--Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

cheeser, definitely some good questions you brought up. In my part of the state, I tend to give up fishing trout in lakes during the summer (after early to mid june). It is just too hot for the trout to really be active. Also, dense weed growth in shallow areas and along shore lines tend to make fishing tough. As you mentioned before, trout hanging out at the thermocline are very lethargic, in fact most are lethargic during warm water temps. Trout tend to hang out at the thermocline because the water is cooler, thus carry higher amounts of dissolved oxygen (DO). This is the main key with trout. Their physiology demands higher concentrations of DO than warmwater fish like bass, sunfish, and coolwater fish like walleye and pike. Unless you are fishing in waters with high turnover of cold water (i.e. active spring activity or inflow from coldwater rivers), most trout will be lethargic in summer, regardless of if they are in the thermocline or not. They can be caught in the summer, don't get me wrong, but they will usually be more difficult to catch, and the stress of the fight and leaving the thermocline for warm oxygen-poor surface water will greatly increase their chance of mortality. Most C&R fisherman will not target trout in the summer for this very reason.

The best bet is to lay off fishing those lakes right now until the air temps start cooling down a bit, mid to late september. Check the shoreline for weed growth; if you notice that the weeds are starting to die off and recede, it is probably a good bet water temps have cooled down a bit, trout are more active, and will start cruising the shallows again. This about the time I start fishing trout again in the lakes, and it is often followed with success. Of course this is about the time that most guys are thinking about chasing ducks. This can also be aan added bonus because most often than not, you will have the lake to yourself. grin.gif

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for the information - it certainly filled in a lot of gaps. grin.gif I, too am familiar with your part of the state, as I was born, raised and graduated from Perham. Even though the lakes I've been on are spring-fed, I have never fished trout past mid-June, precisely because of the reasons you stated. Right now I think I will try the last week in September, although I'm going to monitor temperatures and make notes in my journal. Not much for SV, and just a little EV along the shore.

Thanks again! grin.gif

--Mark

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.