Whitespire Birch

[vizsla01]

I have a whitespire, that I planted last year and did great all summer long, and then this spring noticed that the top 2 to 3 feet is growing nicely and the middle or from the ground up is dead. What would of caused this and what should a person do? I was thinking of planting a smaller clump kind of next to it to hide the bare middle. Any thoughts?

[grassman03]

Step 4 - Monitoring and Controlling Insect Problems

Landscape birch trees are often attacked by two common insect pests, birch leafminer and bronze birch borer. Leafminer attacks do not kill trees; however, they can reduce the aesthetic appearance by turning the leaves brown (Figure 4). In addition, a heavy infestation can weaken a tree's ability to resist attack by the bronze birch borer.

The birch borer is a tree killer (Figure 5). It is a small beetle that thrives on weakened trees. The first symptom of birch borer attack is sparse, stunted foliage in the upper crown. This symptom progresses to twig dieback and then to branch dieback (Figure 6). The process of decline can take several years before a tree dies, though it can also occur very quickly during a single hot, dry year. The decline of a birch tree may be reversed in the early stages, but recovery is improbable after more than 50 percent of the crown is damaged.

Photo - Figure 4. Early summer leaf browning caused by birch leafminer ............... Photo - A classic example of a tree infested with bronze birch borer.

Figure 4. Early summer leaf browning caused by birch leafminer. Figure 5. A classic example of a tree infested with bronze birch borer.

Photo - Classifications of decline caused by the bronze birch borer.

Figure 6. Decline caused by the bronze birch borer. Class 1 trees are healthy. Class 2 trees are in the early stages of birch borer infestation. Class 3 and class 4 trees have more advanced stages of borer infestation. Trees in class 5 are very close to dying. Trees in classes 2 and 3 may be treated for birch borer with some success. Trees in classes 4 and 5 are generally beyond recovery. (Based on information from J. Ball, South Dakota State University).

Controlling Birch Leafminer

Leafminers on birch can be controlled by using a registered insecticide to maintain aesthetic appearance and to prevent trees from undergoing periods of stress caused by excessive leaf loss. A list of insecticides should be available through your county extension office.

Insecticides for controlling leafminers are often applied in three ways: (1) a foliar spray, (2) a soil application, or (3) by painting an insecticide on the stem or bole of the tree. The foliar spray and soil applications are generally the most reliable methods. At this time, there is no supporting evidence that shows bole painting to be a reliable method of control.

Foliar Spray - A thorough application is necessary within 2-5 days after the first tiny yellow spots appear on the leaves, following egg laying (Figures 7 and 8). Generally, the spots show up within a week or two of when the leaves first emerge. The spray should be applied before the spots expand to larger (dime to nickel size) brown blotches. At that point, it is too late to reduce the damage, and insecticides should no longer be used. Instead, attempt to maintain tree health by mulching and watering (see the discussion on Maintaining Your Tree).

The first treatment, in the very early spring, is the most critical. Additional sprays may be needed for later generations of leafminers; however, these later attacks generally involve much lower numbers of insects and in most cases do not require control.

Photo - Spots that form on leaves following egg laying by leafminers. ........ Photo - Advanced leafminer damage.

Figure 7. Spots that form on leaves following egg laying by leafminers. When these spots appear, it is a good time to spray a foliar insecticide. Figure 8. Advanced leafminer damage. This is about the last point at which foliar insecticides can be successfully used.

Soil Application - Some insecticides can be applied to the soil where they are absorbed by the roots and transported to the leaves. These systemic insecticides can work very well. The key to being successful with a soil application is applying the material very early in spring, before bud break. Later applications will not have time to be absorbed by the roots and transported into the developing leaves. In most cases, soil applications are best done by a professional tree care company.

Bole Painting - Some systemic insecticides can be applied directly to trees by brushing or painting the material onto the bole (trunk) of the tree in a band just below the lower branches. The insecticide is absorbed through the bark and transported into the leaves. The best time to apply this material would be just as leaf expansion begins in the spring. The technique is a very easy one for the homeowner; however, its success rate is not well documented.

Controlling Bronze Birch Borer

Following Steps 1-3 in this leaflet are the best course of action for preventing birch borer problems: (1) do not plant a birch tree if the site is not suitable for birch, (2) select a birch species or variety that is less susceptible to birch borer, and (3) maintain tree health through cultural practices. If your tree becomes infested with birch borer, you should first evaluate the extent of the infestation (Figure 6). If the tree is in either class 2 or 3, follow the treatments listed below. In most cases, both treatments will be necessary for a tree to fully recover. If the tree is in class 4 or 5, it will be very difficult to save and should be removed.

Treatment 1: Begin a regular schedule of deep, heavy watering as described under Step 3 in this leaflet.

Treatment 2: Insecticides can be applied to the bark of trees to prevent new attacks. Thorough coverage of branches and the main stem is required. This treatment will not kill insects already under the bark. However, it will help prevent new attacks. Therefore, insecticide applications for birch borer should be targeted only at birch trees in classes 2 and 3. Depending upon the insecticide, as many as three applications are generally required during the spring and summer months (mid-May, mid-June and mid-July). Local county extension agents should be able to provide more site-specific treatment dates.

Pruning out the dead branches may improve the appearance of a declining tree, but it is unlikely to aid in recovery from a birch borer infestation. Birch borer attacks are not limited to the dead and dying branches. Therefore, in most cases their removal will not reduce the number of borers already in the tree. If pruning is done, it should be restricted to fall and winter, as spring and summer pruning can attract adult borers.

[Steve Foss]

Grassman: Miners or borers may or may not be the problem. If you're going to post this, please post the link so vizsla can go to the site in question and see if the condition of his birch matches any of the images.

[grassman03]

sorry about that your right it might not be miners or borers

here is the link

www.na.fs.fed.us/spfo/pubs/howtos/ht_birch/ht_birch.htm

[Powerstroke]

WOW....okay. I would also have to disagree that this is BLM or BBB. Sounds like the rest of the tree is doing well and since its the top half of the tree then I'm evenmore encourages because its the new grows that is the stronger tissue.

Sounds like you've got some transplant shock and maybe it didn't get enough water last year.

I would continue watering this tree once a week to get 5-7 gallons of water. You can try some tree fertilizer spikes from the store or hire someone to do it. This can help the transplant transition.

I would NOT prune this tree right away because of the borer threat to Birches. A fresh wound is like a magnet to the bugs. If you don't think you'll remember which branches are dead, mark them with a dab of red or orange paint or tie a string to them so you know which branches to prune this winter.

If you wish to plant another one, the rules stay the same on planting. Water religiously and check to see if its getting too much are too little. Birches love water especially in a lawna area so too much is probably not an issue. DO NOT plant them too close. I know you want to cover bare spots, but both trees will eventually recover and then you'll have to one of them down if they are too close together. Then what would be the point. Try to keep them at least 15' apart at the truck.