2000 Silverado ?

[walleyejon]

WalleyeChar was drivng back from the store last night when the pickup died on her. She said it chugged once then died. I got there and it started right up for a few seconds and died. I haven't looked at anything yet, and will obviously start by checking fuel system fuses. From there I'm thinking fuel and ignition relays, fuel filter, and (God forbid) fuel pump. Anyone have any other ideas that I should be looking at? Also, if I get down to the fuel pump, any tips on how to go about replacing it. Of course Chevy used two different pumps in 2000, so I will have to take it out just to see which one I need. Thanks in advance.

[Jeremy airjer W]

Sounds like a fuel pump. I would guess that you have around 80 - 100,000 miles on it. These systems need 60 psi of fuel pressure to start. The schrader valve test port is near the fire wall on the drivers side, near the distibutor. If I know that I don't have enough fuel pressure I go right to the harness just before the tank. You'll find two grey wires (I think I know the s-10 and blazer have two grey but I can't remember if the full size do also) one will be power to the pump and I think the other is power to the sending unit. I backprobe this wire with a JR jumper (bed of nails) and turn the key on. the test light should light up for two seconds and then turn off (if it stays on all the time your on the wrong grey wire). If you have power for two seconds you know everything, relays/fuses are good. If you crank it the test light should light up as long as you crank and will stay lit for about two seconds after you stop. A good fuel pressure gauge is extremely helpful for testing these fuel systems.

As far as replacing the pump the tank has to come down. It not a dificult job but you could be dealing with alot of wieght depending on how full the tank is. You will also need a couple of quick disconnect tools to get the fuel lines off. OTC makes a set of two plastic tools that will work for this. these are the only things I have found that will work. The other guys I work with usually just break off the nipples on the sending unit and then remove them after the tank is out. I've never been fond of that practice and have had no problems with these tools. Remeber fuel vapor can get you in a pickle quick so please be careful if you decide to tackle this yourself.

Heres something you can try. If you suspect the fuel pump have somebody crank the engine while you pound on the underside of the tank. More often than not the vehicle will start. also before you pund listen carefully to see if you can hear the pump running. Usually what happens is the comutator on the pump will wear out. Pounding on the tank can rattle the pump enough to get the brushes in a spot that isn't worn out and the pump will start working.

I would suggest going with an A/C delco pump if you need to replace it. I've put in aftermarket pumps in a pinch and usually end up replacing them under warranty within a year. Also make sure that you replace the fuel filter when/if you replace the pump.

[HARPOON-OR-BUST]

Fuel pressure regulator. It is on the drivers side fuel rail towards the back. Pull off the vacume line and if there is fuel there when you pull off the regulator is shot.

[walleyejon]

You guys are great. Thanks a ton for the help. If you're ever up to Lake of the Woods, let me know and I'll help you find some fish.

[Jeremy airjer W]

I have seen 1 Regulator that was bad and was letting the fuel pass without building pressure. The Problem you have described can cause an extended crank and a rich idle but usually will not cause the vehicle to stall or not start at all. The other thing that use to be real common was the ford pressure regulators would fail and cause fuel pressure to be upwards of 90 to 100 psi +. That will throw you for a loop the first time you run into that drivability symptom.

[jwhjr]

Quote:

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Heres something you can try. If you suspect the fuel pump have somebody crank the engine while you pound on the underside of the tank. More often than not the vehicle will start. also before you pund listen carefully to see if you can hear the pump running. Usually what happens is the comutator on the pump will wear out. Pounding on the tank can rattle the pump enough to get the brushes in a spot that isn't worn out and the pump will start working.

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Just as an FYI, sometimes this only works once. A good friend of mine is a mechanic who told me this trick and said in his experience this only works once most of the time. For whatever it's worth...