Storm door problem

[Shorelunch]

Our front glass storm door wasn't completely latched when the high winds came through a couple days ago and the wind caught it and the door's two closers pulled and cracked wood out from the frame from where it was attached. I was thinking about cutting out the wood and try to replace it in both spots where it tore the wood. Otherwise, I'd have to replace the enitire side frame piece, which means pulling down the header too.

Anyone familiar with this type of problem? Any advice? My carpentry "skills" are mediocre at best - maybe hire a handyman?

[Surface Tension]

If the screws just pulled out of the jamb you can fill those holes and move the closer bracket up or down a hair.

If the screws pulled out and took a chunk of the jamb with it, glue the piece back in there and fill the holes. Get yourself some 3 1/2' screws, predrill the jamb and fasten the bracket with the longer screws. Your going to be hitting the framing this way. Don't set the screw in till it starts to pull the jamb in either. If you like you can pull the casing off first and shim between the jamb and framing(jack stud) then attach the bracket with the 3 1/2 screws.

Your chain should be adjusted to stop the door before it starts to put stress on the door jamb bracket with the spring taking up the shock.

[Shorelunch]

ST, thanks for the reply. The screws ripped out about a 2x1" strip of wood at the top closer and a 4x2" chunk in the bottom. Are these too big to glue back and fill and then try and adjust the closer screws?

[Surface Tension]

If the pieces fit together nice and tight then gluing them would be a good bond. You really can't clamp them tight till they dry so if you used finish nails instead without splitting more wood you should be good. I would still use screws long enough to anchor the brackets through the jamb and into the jack stud. Adjusting the closure is only for the force it pulls the door shut at.

The chain limits the amount the door can open which in this case wasn't attached or the limit was set to where the door pulled the closure brackets out of the jamb.

In other words the closure isn't intended to stop the door, thats what the chain is for.

[Shorelunch]

Unfortunately, there isn't a chain on the door but there will be by this weekend. Thanks for the advice - I'll take a closer look at it again tonight.

[GregT]

For beer and a fishing trip, I may be able to give you a hand this weekend. Let me know.

[Shorelunch]

That may be do-able - know anything about air conditioning sending water into my basement, remote lighting systems and how to replace a piece of siding too?

[GregT]

Yep, I have a solution to most any problem we will come across. Just have Lou spend some time fixing the place up and we'll go fishing. Seriously, give me a call. I can talk to my buddies FIL and get A/C q's answered. Just need some more details. Siding is really no biggie either.

[Macgyver55]

Its normal for A/C to produce water. If it's not coming out the drain hose where it is supposed to then its not normal. You've either got a plugged drain hole in the tray, or possibly the drain tray is rusted out and leaking. That happened to mine a couple years ago but it was 16 years old at the time.

[Shorelunch]

Thanks Mac. I'm far from an AC guru. It's not draining out the hose so I'll follow it back and try and find the source of the clog or just take my air compressor and blow it out and see what happens.

Now, anyone know an electrician is the western suburbs who's familiar with remote lighting . . . ?

[looking 4 a 30]

I am the AC guy, you either have a plugged drain, cracked pan, or a-coil is freezing up due to lack of freon, of dirty filter. Change filter every month, if the plenium ( sides from furnace to duct ) is extremely cold you have referegent issues , otherwise unscrew your drain and replace with new.

[Shorelunch]

I took my air compressor and blew a couple of shots up the drain hose and about a quart of water came out - so I guess the drain hose was just plugged. I think I'm good now, but should I check for any possible damage or other culprits?

[SteveWilson]

Quote:

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ST, thanks for the reply. The screws ripped out about a 2x1" strip of wood at the top closer and a 4x2" chunk in the bottom. Are these too big to glue back and fill and then try and adjust the closer screws?

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If the pieces fit well then you can glue them back in; either a decent PVA glue (titebond II) or Gorilla Glue. If the pieces don't fit well then you could square out the damage, insert a patch, and glue; as long as the fit of the patch is good the glue will hold. You may want to hire that part out. If you have damaged screw holes then go to the Borg and get a piece of dowel a size larger than the screw. Then measure the dowel (i.e. 1/4" dowel is generally never 1/4") and pick a twist bit that matches (probably 1/64 or 1/32 less than the nominal diameter of the dowel). Now drill out the old holes, glue in the dowel, and when the glue sets you can drill a pilot hole and put the screws back in. This works for any striped out screw hole; bolt on guitar necks, door hardware, knockdown furniture, etc.