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Downrigger for inland lakes?


steeplechaser2

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I like Cannons because of their ease of operation with one hand. The Easi-Troll would be plenty for Inland lakes and has a 3 digit counter, It costs a little more then the Sport Troll but you don't get the 3 digit counter and you only get 100' of cable. You won't need all that cable on inland lakes but if you fish Superior it still won't be enough.

For inland lakes theres times when they're the ticket for trolling cranks for deep eyes especially when they suspend in deep water. Same thing goes for Lake Trout.

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I'm with Frank on this one but one step higher. I've mounted a set of Cannon Uni-Trolls on my Lund Angler. Complete with cable counters, extendable booms and swivel bases. One handed operation makes them a breeze to use. With 200' of cable, inland waters are no problem. Even on Superior, when mom nature let's us small boats out of the harbors, I've yet to see the end of the cable.

On suspended, deep water walleye, these can be down right deadly!! Lakers and Salmon..... Same thing. IMHO... The use of downriggers make all the heavy trolling weights and diving planers (Dipsey's) obsolete.

They're just another fishing tool, but when used wisely, can be a real asset to your arsenal. grin.gif

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I have Big Jon and Walker. Prefer the Walker over Big Jon. Use Walker releases on both. Fish down riggers for inland trout and am starting to use for deep Walleyes/Northerns.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Sounds pretty sweet, alright. I will check them out, thanks.
    • If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets.  Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome.  You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.   24V 80lb.  60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat.  They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
    • Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to not being the anchor person any more).  With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing. I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
    • Dang, new content and now answers.   First, congrats on the new boat!   My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V.  80 might be tops?  I’m partial to MinnKota.     How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.     All weather or just nice weather?   Casting a lot or bait dragging?   Bobber or panfish fishing?   Spot lock?  Networked with depth finders?  What brand of depth finders?
    • We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor,  wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will want for this boat?  Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke  Mariner motor)  I will appreciate any help with these questions.
    • Sketti...  not out of a jar either!
    • Lol yeah I watched that
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