i have a older strikemaster mag 2000 i got used last year. long story short, i had to have someone pick it up for me, it was never started and i wasnt told the trueth about the way it ran. i found the carb had been taken apart several times when i pulled it apart the first time my self.
its a tilson single needle carb, i have just replaced everything with a fresh rebuild kit. problem is it wont start. i can play the internals of the carb to get it to run if i need to but then it wont idle.
i know the carb is clean through the jet,lines and tank. like i said, i can get it to run if i tinker with the rocker for the needle. but it refuses to run with just straight up replacing the internals and no tinkering.
i have tryed setting the meetering screw from turned all the way in to one a half turnes out and all the way up to being backed out far enough to see fuel come out around the screw. i can get the auger to run from about 1.5 to 2 turnes out from closed.
i think its called the governer screw, its screwed all the way in from when i got it. not sure what the setting is for that.
last and final thing. the choke spring for the butterfly flap. there is 2 holes in the plastic flap. when i got it the spring was not in one of the holes it was wraped around the post that goes up in to the auger. i have experimented with the spring position and it seems to work better in the hole on the left if facing the carb.
if someone has simular auger or experience with this carb? i have tryed strikemaster for assistence and some of the local small engine dealers that service these things, but all i hear is bring it in so we can look at it. dont relly have the money to that, and i would rather spend my money on either a new carb or auger.
Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to
not being the anchor person any more). With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely
that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing.
I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the
new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
Dang, new content and now answers.
First, congrats on the new boat!
My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V. 80 might be tops? I’m partial to MinnKota.
How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.
All weather or just nice weather?
Casting a lot or bait dragging?
Bobber or panfish fishing?
Spot lock? Networked with depth finders? What brand of depth finders?
We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha
motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor, wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will
want for this boat? Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke
Mariner motor) I will appreciate any help with these questions.
I went ahead and watched some of the MLF coverage. Wheeler didn’t make the cut but the bigger story was the Poche/Avera fallout.
Kinda funny listening to both sides of the story and putting together the scenario, reading between the lines.
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jimh874
i have a older strikemaster mag 2000 i got used last year. long story short, i had to have someone pick it up for me, it was never started and i wasnt told the trueth about the way it ran. i found the carb had been taken apart several times when i pulled it apart the first time my self.
its a tilson single needle carb, i have just replaced everything with a fresh rebuild kit. problem is it wont start. i can play the internals of the carb to get it to run if i need to but then it wont idle.
i know the carb is clean through the jet,lines and tank. like i said, i can get it to run if i tinker with the rocker for the needle. but it refuses to run with just straight up replacing the internals and no tinkering.
i have tryed setting the meetering screw from turned all the way in to one a half turnes out and all the way up to being backed out far enough to see fuel come out around the screw. i can get the auger to run from about 1.5 to 2 turnes out from closed.
i think its called the governer screw, its screwed all the way in from when i got it. not sure what the setting is for that.
last and final thing. the choke spring for the butterfly flap. there is 2 holes in the plastic flap. when i got it the spring was not in one of the holes it was wraped around the post that goes up in to the auger. i have experimented with the spring position and it seems to work better in the hole on the left if facing the carb.
if someone has simular auger or experience with this carb? i have tryed strikemaster for assistence and some of the local small engine dealers that service these things, but all i hear is bring it in so we can look at it. dont relly have the money to that, and i would rather spend my money on either a new carb or auger.
jim
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