Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

2008 Saturn Aura - Stalling


Recommended Posts

Car is a 2008 Saturn Aura, 2.4L, 104,000 miles.

 

It's my daughter's car.  She's complained off and on over the last 18  months that the car will intermittently run rough and/or stall.  Never throws a code.  I've gone through every wire harness that I can find both inside the car and under the hood.  No issues found.  I've also gone through every ground connection that I could find and checked connectors, putting dielectric grease on all of them to ensure no fretting corrosion.  The problem has been very intermittent.  Sometime not happening for several months.  But seems to be reoccurring more now.  She called a couple weeks ago and said that the car stalled at the parking ramp at MOA after she hit a pothole.

I've been driving the car for the last two weeks.  And here are the symptoms that have occurred while I've been driving it.

First week nothing.  Drove fine.  I gave her the car back and next day she calls and says the check engine light is on.  I pull the code.  I think it was PO014.  I did clear it so I hope I have the code right but when I looked it up it was for Camshaft Position Actuator Solenoid Valve.  Auto stores called them Variable Valve Timing Solenoids.  So I replaced both actuators, as it is a dual overhead cam.  Both were clogged with fine metal shavings or powder.  The media was metallic.  Checked with a magnet.  Media was very fine.  No sharp edges.  Changed the oil.  Checked both actuators again after a day of driving and both were clean.

Car ran fine for a few more days.  Then one day when I was sitting at a stop light I could feel the car surging.  Looked at the rpm gauge and it was bouncing up and down slightly.  Car accelerated fine when the light turned green.  This happened again a day or two later.

On Wednesday I pull into the garage at home after work and the car just quits as I'm coasting into the garage.  It was immediate, almost as if I turned the ignition off.  Engine wasn't running rough.  Put it into neutral and she started right back up fine.  No problems.

Yesterday, I get thinking.  Daughter said she hit a pothole before it stalled.  It stalled on me when I pulled into my garage.  I do need a new driveway.  My apron is sinking in front of the garage so there is quite a lip when pulling into the garage.  Almost like a speed bump...LOL.  So when I get home from work I pull into the garage a little faster than normal so that I hit the bump hard.  Sure enough, car starts running really rough.  I put it into neutral and park and she still runs rough.  Almost on the verge of stalling.  I could hear a loud and distinctive clanking from under the hood.  I kept it running and popped open the hood and the sound was coming from under the valve cover.  Shut car off.  Started it back up.  Ran fine and smooth.

Met my daughter at Gander last night in Lakeville.  We spent an hour at the indoor range.  The car stalled on me as I was pulling into a parking spot.  Again it just died.  Engine wasn't running rough.  I think I hit a pothole in the lot before turning into the spot.  After we were done, I went home and pulled into the garage hard again.  Sure enough, car ran rough.  Though I didn't notice the loud clanking this time.  The car stalled again this morning as I pulled into a parking spot at work.

 

The car seems to just stall immediately or run rough after decelerating/stopping.

No codes except for the one mentioned above.  The symptoms seem to vary some but the only consistencies seem to be car acts up when decelerating (sitting at a stop light, pulling into garage or parking spot) and possibly mechanical agitation, such as when hitting a pothole.

 

Ideas?

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

how many miles and has it had a fuel pump put in it ever?  Sounds to me it might have a fuel issue.  Just thinking thru what you mentioned. Can you hear the pump whining?  Had a dodge truck that as soon as i could hear the pump noise it would need a new one.  All done under warranty.  Good luck, i hate gremlins.  

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was thinking possible fuel pump.  As when she was running rough the other day it seemed like she was starving for fuel and the knocking I heard may have been detonation due to running too lean.   It's original pump as far as I know.  

This weekend I'm going to through a gauge on the fuel rail and see if I can get it to act up again.  I don't want to drop the gas tank if I don't have to.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The ignition control modules can do some weird things on them engines, Could be related to the problem. When it stalls does it start right back up? The noise you were hearing could be from misfires and creating the timing chain to slap. Common for them to stretch out also.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

An update on what happened.

 

Airjer suspected an issue with cam phaser and possibly oil delivery to the top end of the engine because of valve noise.  So I decide to replace the cam phasers.  When I attempted to rotate the engine by hand, via the camshafts, the timing chain jumped on the cam sprocket.  Great!

 

So I purchased a new timing chain and chain tensioner and began the disassembly.  When I got the front cover/timing cover off I found something that I was not expecting.  The stationary timing chain guide was broken.  Below is a picture of the pieces of the chain guide.

IMG_20160214_192701879.thumb.jpg.3404aac

The top bolt that held the chain guard in place was gone.  The bottom bolt was sheared.  Drilling and tapping that was fun.  Only 5 inches of space because of the frame.  I had to purchase a right angle attachment for my cordless drill but it did work.

 

I also discovered where the metal shavings came from that I described in the original post.  The timing chain was rubbing on the housing as evidenced by the marks that it left.

IMG_20160214_190440871.thumb.jpg.06f232d

 

You can also see that the timing chain was stretched when compared to a new chain.

 

IMG_20160214_192653812.thumb.jpg.e475b99

 

So I ended up replacing both cam phasers, timing chain, chain tensioner, guides, serpentine belt (since it was off for disassembly) and I pulled the oil pan to recover the missing/broken parts.  Didn't see anything in the oil pan and no rattling.  So I pulled the baffle and the oil pump suction line.  The missing bolt, sheared bolt head and several pieces of the chain guide were all stuck up inside the suction line strainer.  I didn't get any pictures of that because at this point my hands were quite oily and I didn't want to handle my phone.

 

Got it all back together put new oil and oil filter in.  Drove it to work yesterday and noticed when the engine gets hot and you come to a stop you can barely feel what feels like a slight miss as the car idles.  After work drove home and changed oil again.  There was debris in the brand new oil filter after driving approximately 40 miles round trip to and from work.  Not surprising after all the disassembly and cleaning that I did.  Drove it to work this morning and the slight miss at idle is better but still slightly noticeable.  I suspect that with the damage that I found there is debris moving through the oil system.  Also, varnish that may have been loosened with the disassembly and reassembly.  This may affect the cam phasers, VVT solenoids or a sticky valve.  I plan to run some sea foam through the oil and hopefully clean things up a bit better.  I also plan to pull the VVT solenoids to clean and inspect.

Hopefully this will be the final fix because it sure seems like something is sticking.  You can feel the slight miss, watch the rpm gauge ever so slightly fluctuate and then it just stops.

 

If I discover anything else I will update the post.

Edited by Fishinguy40
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.