Cedar or Pine tounge and groove?

[waligators]

I have a buddy that is going to finish the inside of his new Yetti and is wondering which is lighter in weight, cedar or pine? He is planing on using 5/16" thickness boards. Also, which one is stronger and any pros/cons of using one or the other? Any tips or tricks when installing to prevent warping or buckling of the boards? The house is 6.5'x12' plus the v in front

[Lip_Ripper Guy]

Cedar is better, but way more expensive.

If/when I build another house, I'll finish both sides for extra water resistance. Make sure your studs are 16" OC and glue the boards down. Should be just fine.

[waligators]

thanks lip ripper, i figured he should finish the board wherever a cut was made to seal it up, but didnt think of doing the back side also.

[jentz]

Cedar is lighter,easier to work with and never glue any finish T&G,it needs to expand and contract with the weather.Personally 16 inch OC studs is not made for the thin 5/16s decorative boards unless there is backing,get 3/4 inch also called 1X

[Redlineracer12]

I used Cedar 5/16" T&G in my Yetti. I moved the fur strips to be 16" O.C. Then I put 3/4" styrofoam in between the fur strips (except a couple small channels where I ran my wiring) to support the cedar. That way if you accidentally lean into it or smack it with the auger handle you hopefully won't make a hole. It's been good so far for me, I sanded each board and then sealed both sides in the garage. Was a lot of work but hopefully will last forever. I nailed mine up with a finish nailer.

Pine is stronger than Cedar, but this is usually just for looks anyways, so I don't think that's really an issue. There is no flippin way I would be putting 3/4" boards along all of the walls, extra weight and cost for no reason and you would actually lose another 1" of width for the whole length of the house which is already lacking with the 6.5' models.

[Hawg]

+1 for what relineracer said but I would have used a stronger word than flippin.

[Chad Holst]

We are in the middle of completing the inside of our custom built 8x16+4V and we are doing pine tounge and grove.

Its pretty easy to work with and can be made to look about 100 different looks.

We did 8" wide Tounge and Groove. The back side is smooth and the front has a groove at 4". We ran the 4" grooved side out, and verticle from the floor up to the wheel well height. Then we are running everything above that horizontal with the smooth side out. This gives a wanescoting look on the bottom. painint the bottom black and staining the top.

Ran the ceiling with 4" out and did a natural color stain.

If you cant work with pine, i dont think you could work with anything. Its a pretty easy wood to work with..and its cheap.

[Iambjm]

I have a buddy that is going to finish the inside of his new Yetti and is wondering which is lighter in weight, cedar or pine? He is planing on using 5/16" thickness boards. Also, which one is stronger and any pros/cons of using one or the other? Any tips or tricks when installing to prevent warping or buckling of the boards? The house is 6.5'x12' plus the v in front

This how I did mine, added extra 1x2's then extra insulation then the thinner tongue and groove pine

[Chad Holst]

Here is how we set up the walls behind the car siding/ pine tongue and groove...

We had to put a cross board at the railing height, so we had something to tie the vertical boards on the bottom 3 feet to. We offset every other one, so we could screw them in from the sides of the studs.

However, how we did it worked best because we sheeted the entire house after studded the walls. This helped ALOT on many things. We were able to move the house around before during and after putting aluminum on. It made sure the walls/aluminum sheeting were flat and wouldn’t get a "wave" in them. It gave us a solid spot to screw aluminum without having to worry and mark stud lines, which also meant my aluminum didn’t have to start and end on a stud. It also gave us a foundation to attach anything we needed to attach, anywhere, without concern for where we had solid wood, for example, the lights, or hood vents, or access doors, etc. It added a layer of “insulation” so that we could get the same R rating with the sheeting and then the white foam insulation as what we would have got with no sheeting and then pink foam board. (Which is a lot more expensive) It also squared everything up nice. It made for a solid foundation to fit the foam board into…so that the car siding in turn is also “firm” against something. There are no “soft” spots anywhere on my walls.

But, there is one thing that will make me ALWAYS sheet the house after studding now….It made the house A LOT more solid. Here’s what happened: We had just studded the walls, bolted them to the lag bolts on the frame and ran the rafters. The house was “down” at the time, to make sure everything was lying square on the frame. We had to move the house over a bit so I started cranking up right wheel. I got up about ½ way and the double speed slide pin slipped out and the house fell! It hit the ground so hard it snapped 2 studs on the OTHER side of the house! We then decided to go back and screw in all the boards that had just been nailed before, and then we sheeted it. What an amazing difference. It made everything square but it made everything tighten up. This thing will for sure handle the bumpy roads.

I know guys will hate the extra weight of the screws and the sheeting, but there is no way i ever build another house without screwing EVERYTHING and also sheeting it with 7/16 sheeting.

There is one down side…weight. I know it isn’t needed, but the many benefits easily outweigh the extra pounds. To sheet the entire outside you will be using just under 13 sheets. Most people don’t go 8 feet high, but we did, as we needed extra space for beds, etc. So, 13 sheets at 47lb each is: 611lbs. and at 9.49 a piece it would be $123.00. You can subtract 75lbs, for each foot less than 8, for your height. A standard 7 foot outside wall would be 536lbs. Cheap and not too heavy, but it does add some weight.

And when I say cheap, I mean CHEAP. It was FREE… The cost of the R 7.5 pink foam board was 18.95 a sheet. The cost of the R6 styro board was 8.95…which meant that the money you save from getting R6 is what the OSB sheeting costs! I don’t know what the “r” factor for 7/16 OSB is, but I’m guessing its more than 1.5, so my walls are actually more insulated than using pink board, for the same price.

We then took some $3.00 cans of spray foam and sprayed into any cracks and seams and let the foam expand. Once the door bottom is sealed you won't see a candle flicker in this house.