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Salem Ice Cabin Battery Options


jjohnson5150

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We've had our 8x14 Salem Ice Cabin for 4 years now. It's been a solid unit. We got a Honda generator the week after the purchase after realizing it was needed for the forced air furnace. 2 years ago I bought the red lake cap gas tank system. It was a home run. No more filling the generator at 3 AM. I'd like to upgrade the battery set up so I can go in stealth mode from time to time and have it as back up in the event my generator has issues. The one battery set up allows for brief use or back up, but wouldn't get one through the night (or at least wouldn't with our battery). Has anyone with forced air furnace modified their battery set up to use an on board charging system? If so, I'd appreciate it if any details can be shared. Thanks.

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I am not familiar with the charging system in your Ice Cabin. In my camper I have a high amp inverter charging system. I am sure salem uses this as they are a camper building company as well. I camp a lot off grid only having my generator to charge things for deer hunting. So a similar situation to Ice fishing. I had a heck of a hard time with one battery and the furnace running. This year I added a couple more group 29 batteries and no more issues! I increased my reserve from 160 min to 520 min. I would add one or two more batteries in a compartment hooking them up parallel this will increase your run time big time. When buying the new battery or batteries look at the reserve amp rating. Lot of campers, ice houses etc... Will give you group 24 which isn't gonna cut it I would add a couple group 29's or even 31's This should solve your problems. Also when the ice house is at home, make sure it is plugged in to keep your batteries charged.

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I would like to add. My camper had the one battery on the front of the camper by the hitch. I had some extra storage under one of my dinette benches that was not being used. I put the 2 batteries in there and then ran 10ga wire connecting those batteries to my main battery. If I ever buy a wheel house this will be one of the first things I do. You should be able to run all night without the generator on with no issues. Then during the day when you have it on for tv etc... It will charge up your batteries for the next night. Only way to go in my opinion!

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Thanks for the reply. It helps. At first I had wondered if we got a bad battery, but I used it the following summer to run my 30 lb thrust trolling motor without issues and didn't feel the need at the time to replace it since we had used the generator all winter. I'll look into the 29's & 31's. I may have to modify the battery connections regardless since it's a one battery tray that is accessed from a lockable exterior door. My next step is to unscrew the top of the bench that has all the electrical running to it. I'm a bit of a rookie when it comes to electrical unfortunately.

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The previous advice is spot on. You should add two or three batteries to have the reserve power you need. Group 29 or 31 is important, and it will keep you generator free for a good length of time. To answer your charger question, yes put an on board charger in the house and leave it hooked up to one of your generator supplied 120v outlets ... that way when you plug the house in you are instantly and easily charging or maintaining your batteries. You are on a smart path to be independent of the generator ... enjoy the stealth pursuit!

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Great advice. It sounds as if I may have some solid options. Hopefully I can keep this upgrade under $300. I don't mind running the generator Crappie fishing while it's in the back of my truck, but there are certainly some times fishing for eyeballs that I'd like to have it off.

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I would also like to add I put in a 12 volt switch on the 2 extra batteries so If I take them out for my boat or something I can just turn the switch off and still be able to camp using my one main battery. You will so much more that wheel house once you have adequate battery reserve!!

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I have been trying to decide what would the best set up for powering my house as well. My ice castle did not come with a dc converter so now I am leaning toward putting in a on board charger, such as a minnkota 330 for quick charging, and then maybe a simple stand alone dc converter. I have seen the 330's on sale for $250 and the converters I'm looking at around $50.

While running the Honda generator the whole house would be powered with the converter as well as batteries being charged. then without the generator running the house would run off the batteries allowing for the stealthy approach as well.

I have been running two 27's in parrelell for the forced air furness and a third 27 series for the lights with a regular battery charger on while the generator is going. The above set up would have me swapping over alligator clips between the converter and the batteries which is not ideal, but maybe there is a way to put in a switch to make it easy? I have this access from inside the house so having to switch things over might not be ideal as well with an outside access in the ice cabin.

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The on board charger is a great idea in all applications in my opinion. Easy charging and maintaining makes the logistics of being on the ice better, and at the end of the day or trip when you get home the batteries are going to get charged right away instead of when you get the energy to plug them in the next day.

A converter seems most popular on wheel houses, and does give you a 12v supply as well when running your generator. Many converters have the built in battery charger ... so getting both jobs done. But with a Converter you only have 120v power when the generator or shore power is supplied to the house.

Alternate idea, and my preference, is an inverter. This takes your 12v power from the batteries and turns it into the 120v. So when you are not running a generator, you have the 120v supply available for a TV or vexilar type battery chargers, etc. Mounting an inverter and on board battery charger in my view allows me to run all systems without a generator on, and the generator comes out only for recharging the main batteries as needed. I like the combination of all LED lighting, spray foam insulation to keep the heater running less and drawing less power, and LED TV's if you need a TV to keep the total power draw down.

Lots of ways to create a system that fits your goals the best ...

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The best thing to use is actually a camper power converter. I have a WFCO 55 amp in my camper they can be had for about $180 online. It has a 3 stage 55amp charger that will charge your batteries and convert your 120ac to dc while your generator or land power is connected. Though alot of people will use an on board charger, because they are easy to use aftermarket. I think every Wheel house that has a battery system needs a charging system to manage battery power, either a power converter or a on board charger.

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The best thing to use is actually a camper power converter.

x2

I have gone entire nights without a generator before. I have a pretty basic setup, 12V DieHard Platinum group 65 battery (fits in my truck so I can swap if I have issues with either on a trip) and the Progressive Dynamics 9200 12v converter/charger. I used to just run the generator for a few hours before going to bed to make sure the battery was good and charged, then start it back up in the morning for a few more hours. I think this setup works the best because you have all your bases covered, it puts out up to 45A for powering your 12V supplies and charging the battery(s) when plugged in, but you can still run 110V accessories on 110V. For example the inverter method mentioned by beebsout would be slick because you can run 110V all the time, but would limit you to whatever appliances your inverter would support (probably not any air conditioners, coffee pots, toaster ovens, etc like you can with actual 110V power be it generator or land). Also clean 110V inverters (pure sine wave) are really expensive, so I would rather keep the 110V A/C rather than use a cheap-o inverter and possibly damage expensive electronics like TVs/computers.

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I spoke with the WFCO rep about their dc converters and what he described is the converters are not meant to be used as a dedicated charger. Yes they will charge batteries with a three stage system, but he mentioned the charging may not initiate if the battery charge falls below 50%. I don't see these converters putting out much for charge = extended run time on a generator to get the batteries topped off. Yes the DC outputs on the different converts vary, but to my understanding the majority of that output is not dedicated to charging rather for powering the furness etc. for example a 35amp converter may may only put out 4-6 amps towards charging the batteries. I'm sure this varies depending on which converter is used.

I'm leaning towards the converter route now but just not confident they will work in all situations??

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