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Fixing tongue and groove that buckled in humidity?


muskielaw

Question

I bought a used ice castle last year in December and dressed it up a little with some oak wainscot paneling. They are 3 inch tongue and groove panels. I did the work in December and did not take into consideration the swelling of the wood come summer. Duh!!! When I went in it this summer the wainscot had buckled every couple of feet and popped all the trim off. I hoped once the humidity went back down the problem would correct itself which did not happen. Well now I am trying to figure out the easiest way to fix the problem without taking every piece of wood off. We nailed each three inch panel in and used some the heaving duty construction glue when installing. I am thinking about just pulling the boards that have buckled and cutting a small chunk out of the boards and re-installing. I will leave a small gap to allow for swelling next year. Really not a construction guy just like to do things myself which is what creates these situations. Any experts have a better suggestion for fixing this problem?

Thanks

Muskie

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You got me confused?? Is it panneling or seperate T&G boards.T&G Is pre milled for expansion and contraction.The ends aginst the walls should have been gapped for expansion/contraction.Legnth wise there is little movement.

Is it the cheap 5/16s boards or full 3/4s.I never seen in years of doing carpentry any T&G buckle,That is if the ends where left for expansion.Never used glue eiter that doesnt allow for movement.

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This is what it is "House of Fara 8 Linear ft. Red Oak Tongue and Groove Wainscot Paneling" that I picked up from the HD box store. It comes in 8 ft kits with the floor molding and top trim. And yes it is separate 3 inch tongue and groove boards. Thanks

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If you google the above you will see what I used. Obviously the tongue and groove were installed vertically and there was a little space left in the corners of the house so there should have been a little room for movement. Thanks for your help

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A few things-

If it is solid wood DO NOT use adhesive to hold it in place. Wood needs to move with changes in temp and humidity and if you inhibit that you will get problems like you are seeing.

Did you finish both sides of the T and G or just the face? If you only the face and leave the back side unfinished then the back side can and will take in moisture while the face will not and that can cause the planks to warp.

Your case may or may not include any of the above but they are general rules that I wanted to provide FYI.

In my experience the only way to resolve your situation is to remove the planking that is warped and see if it returns to normal once any pressure is relieved. If it retains its warped shape it is difficult at best to straighten it. Much like a severely warped 2x4 it doesn't like to straighten well.

Some of that can be factors in your project that contributed to the problem and some may even come from the wood not being properly kiln dried or handled from the manufacturer.

If you could post some pictures of what it looks like I can try to troubleshoot it for you and see if there is an easy fix.

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