Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Shack Questions


Canatrapper

Recommended Posts

Hello All,

Not sure if you remeber... I posted last spring questions about spearing as I am new and looking to get into the sport. First of all, thank you to some of you that are handing off stuff, it is really helping me get started for as cheap as possible. I really appreciate it!

So I am looking at building a shack, I was looking through previous posts and I think I have decided on a 5.5 by 7. I like this size. Now the hole was put at the end of the house, could a guy put to large holes along the side of a house? Would you have enought room to do this? Any thoughts would be appreciated since I have never speared and would like to see what other veterans thought of this? Thanks all.

Steven

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Canatrapper,

I'm sure as the time gets closer to spear season, you will get more response to your questions. I personally built three small permanents with my dad and friend two years ago. We ended up with the shack being 4'x6.5' so it would fit in the back of a pickup. We put the spear hole at the far end of the shack and made it 24"x44". your hole can never be too big!! (Unless you drop your phone!!) we built the floor out of treated 2x4s and half inch plywood. walls were 2x2s with 1/4" plywood. its been a great shack and I am plotting some new transport modifications. I'll try to take a few pics and post them this week if I can find them.

I would suggest you draw out the floor plan of your shack on the basement floor with a tape. Thentape outline where your hole would be. Then you can put your chair or bench inside the outline and see if you have enough room to move.

Hope this helps. Post pictures as you go!!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You can put holes in it anywhere you want to and any size you want to that's the great thing about building your own shack do what you want to do.

I have speared out of many different types of houses with holes of all sizes and as small as 18"X24" not that I would recommend that size but it has been done before. as a matter of fact it was a house that two hole s that size.

Dorkfish hit the nail on the head with tapping out a floor plan on the garage floor ,set you chair and heater in where you think they should be then start thinking of what else you may need then tape out your hole or do your hole first then from there you will know how much room you will need for everything else.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Also think about storage such as where your decoys are going to be or a cooler for food and beverages. I like to keep those things inside the house so there is less opening and shutting of the door/doors. Make it so if fits you. While I was making the floor for my pop up I set the chair on the plywood and drew it out with a square and pencil figuring how much room I needed but remember your wall thickness as well when doing this because it will cut down on the amount of room you have in the house. Also shelves are very handy in the house to put decoys underneath on hooks or on top and also a radio if you prefer.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Spearhead posted his shack build on here last year... his has a huge hole like you were asking about.. I will have to dig around and find it...

Looking at the pics on line and following his progress I honestly wasnt too sure I would like the finished product... then I speared out of it and I have to tell ya... it is one of the nicest shacks I have speared out of.

I will dig around and see if I can find the posts... but here is a video of the shack in action.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is a sweet house! Awesome video too, Spearhead, or anyone else, what is the dimensions of this house? It will work perfect for my stove in the corner. I built with my dad while we were home. I will post a picture of that later for you guys to check out. Thanks Merk!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I made the hole 18" shorter to allow for my stove against the back wall. Other that that the only real thing I did different than Mike was incorporate my runners into the wall studs. It worked out pretty good last year.

Good luck.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

You could take some thin metal preferably steel and paint it with heat paint and cover the walls that the heater is by just above the heater. If that makes sense to you it's difficult to explain through a message

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Truly sorry to hear that duffman! I know that feeling.  Keep the good memories  
    • Chamois passed away this weekend a couple days short of her 13th bday. What a great dog to hang out with here at home and on distant adventures. Gonna miss ya big time my little big girl.
    • Sounds pretty sweet, alright. I will check them out, thanks.
    • If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets.  Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome.  You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.   24V 80lb.  60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat.  They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
    • Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to not being the anchor person any more).  With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing. I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
    • Dang, new content and now answers.   First, congrats on the new boat!   My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V.  80 might be tops?  I’m partial to MinnKota.     How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.     All weather or just nice weather?   Casting a lot or bait dragging?   Bobber or panfish fishing?   Spot lock?  Networked with depth finders?  What brand of depth finders?
    • We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor,  wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will want for this boat?  Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke  Mariner motor)  I will appreciate any help with these questions.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.