Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

looking to swap out exhaust


jarod duane

Recommended Posts

Quite a few bikes these days don't show any meaningful improvement in performance until you do intake, exhaust, and fueling mods. Any of them on their own don't amount to much, if any, or maybe even a loss, generally speaking. Exhaust in and of itself can add lots of noise, which is fine and what I've done, but by itself it's often a loss of performance over the factory pipe(s).

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks whoaru for the info, this is kinda a personal preference deal, after time just didn't like the sound, my wife Honda shadow sounds better than mine, I want that blomp blomp blomp rumble. I have a FI programmer to adjust for loss if needed. Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Wasn't trying to imply you shouldn't do it, only saying what are the most likely results from doing it.

The Cobra pipes I have heard have been really loud. My V&H pipes can make some pretty good noise but the Cobras I've heard, well, they're too much for my liking. Could just be the certain ones the guys have had. I don't recall the models, only the brand.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So what were the results of the pipe trade out? I know some of the "other" brands of bikes just don't produce the true loping sound of a HD. If I'm not mistaken, I've heard the HD folks actually tried to "patent" that sound so no one else could copy it?

I'm really not much of a mechanic, but wouldn't that deep guttural lope come more from overall displacement and a slower RPM? Big jugs, and a slower idle...blop, blop, blop....

I'm sure one could change the "sound" of a bike with different pipes, but that's not gonna do much for the pace, or tempo of the revolution. I'd also be a little concerned about over-muffling the exhaust. Couldn't this potentially cause some damage to the engine, or minimally throw off the air intake ratio and screw up your gas mileage? Or perhaps that can be adjusted with the FI programmer you mentioned?

How many cc's does the Boulevard have?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The sound of any motor comes from a couple things.

Suzuki's crank pins are at different intervals than Harley so you won't get that nice rumble we typically associate with Harleys. To some extent the air intake also has an effect on sound. There's more to it but typing on an iPhone is a pain. frown

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, you'll never get that "if it was anything but a Harley I'd bring it in for repair because it's not running right" sound wink from a metric V-twin, but you can certainly get a deeper, more throaty sound with some pipes (the sound I like) or the higher-pitched more raspy/rappy sound with other pipes.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

all primary engine performance is based on how it can "breathe". How easily the engine can breathe will effect how much fuel you can push through it and how fast. By finding the the right combination of how fast and big a breath of fuel is determined by first you air filter, venturi size, intake manifold & intake valve area. Your cam profile will determine how how deep and long of a breath it takes and your exhaust valve area, exhaust gasket constriction into you final exhaust and muffler/baffle . If you change any of these, without changing the opposite side to keep the balance, then you probably are de-tunning the engine. ( I know I didn't get into the fuel delivery or the ignition side of it, but they don't dramatically effect how the engine breathes.)

If you have the option you might consider a tunable slip fit muffler, like a supertrapp

Link to comment
Share on other sites

These days everything is much more closely matched than in the "good old days". That's why in most cases just changing one of the three (intake, fuel, exhaust) by itself doesn't improve much, or may even decrease performance.

It's not like back in the muscle car days when the hot rods had big cams, big carbs, high rise intakes and open air cleaners with dinky exhaust manifolds and pencil-like exhaust pipes. Just throwing a set of headers and bigger exhaust pipes on those could net pretty big gains.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

But don't give up hope, remember the EPA always steps in and regulates the emissions and the manufactures must comply. Usually by detuning the engines with a restrictive exhaust system. A high flow air filter and tunable exhaust can give you a nice little boost, but it's not going to turn it into a track bike. But this may cost you some mpg.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Modern bikes are tuned so lean to meet EPA that without a fuel tuner adding intake and exhaust is almost certain to result in a net loss, albeit with more noise that gives the impression of more power.

Good point, I will admit I don't know much about fuel injection systems and how to, or if they can be adjusted to lean/rich the mix. I still live in the carb era. ( my newest bike is old enough to vote blush )

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Good point, I will admit I don't know much about fuel injection systems and how to, or if they can be adjusted to lean/rich the mix. I still live in the carb era. ( my newest bike is old enough to vote blush )

New F.I. bike can be "tuned" either with reprogramming the existing PCM, or getting a box that plugs inline to the PCM and lies to it to do what needs to be done.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • Truly sorry to hear that duffman! I know that feeling.  Keep the good memories  
    • Chamois passed away this weekend a couple days short of her 13th bday. What a great dog to hang out with here at home and on distant adventures. Gonna miss ya big time my little big girl.
    • Sounds pretty sweet, alright. I will check them out, thanks.
    • If you really want to treat your wife (and yourself) with a remote operated trolling motor, the Minn Kota Ulterra is about easy as it gets.  Auto stow and deploy is pretty awesome.  You just have to turn the motor on when you go out and that the last time you have to touch it.   24V 80lb.  60 inch shaft is probably the right length for your boat.  They ain’t cheap - about $3k - but neither one of you would have to leave your seat to use it all day.
    • Wanderer, thanks for your reply. I do intend for it to be 24 volt, with a thrust of 70-80. Spot lock is a must (my wife is looking forward to not being the anchor person any more).  With my old boat we did quite a lot of pulling shad raps and hot n tots, using the trolling motor. Unlikely that we will fish in whitecaps, did plenty of that when I was younger. I also need a wireless remote, not going back to a foot pedal. We do a fair amount of bobber fishing. I don't think I will bother with a depth finder on the trolling motor. I am leaning toward moving my Garmin depth finder from my old boat to the new one, just because I am so used to it and it works well for me. I am 70 years old and kinda set in my ways...
    • Dang, new content and now answers.   First, congrats on the new boat!   My recommendation is to get the most thrust you can in 24V, assuming a boat that size isn’t running 36V.  80 might be tops?  I’m partial to MinnKota.     How do you plan to use the trolling motor is an important question too.     All weather or just nice weather?   Casting a lot or bait dragging?   Bobber or panfish fishing?   Spot lock?  Networked with depth finders?  What brand of depth finders?
    • We have bought a new boat, which we will be picking up this spring. It is an Alumacraft Competitor 165 sport with a 90 horse Yamaha motor. I will be buying and installing a trolling motor,  wondering if I can get some recommendations on what pound thrust I will want for this boat?  Also, I will be selling my old boat, is there a good way to determine the value on an older boat ( mid-80's with a 75 horse 2-stroke  Mariner motor)  I will appreciate any help with these questions.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.