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Did i get a good deal?


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Just baught a older plastic coleman ram x 15 footer the one with the metal rods on the inside and the not so comfy seat red un color and has scratches from use but no holes and a little dirty and some rust. Included in my deal i got a electric trolling motor not sure if it works but looks like it should and 2 paddles plus the shoulder carry attatchment all for $258. Did i get a good deal? And i was wonderin if anyone had any tips on transporting he gave me some old foam blocks to bring it home strapped to my toyota yaris roof. It did shift around to different positions since the wind today is pretty strong. Is there any ways and tricks i can get a more secure way to tie it down and any tricks i can load and unload the canoe solo? BTW how much is a tab for the canoe going to cost me?

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Regarding strapping it to a roof, you can google the question and get some really interesting solutions. I'm not interesting, so here's what I do:

I like to use lots and lots and lots and lots and lots and lots of ratchet straps. It makes it uncomfortable on the inside of the car because one of the straps is near my head, but after seeing a kevlar canoe fold in half (the front strap broke but the middle one held, so the canoe--while still on the car--folded around the middle strap kind of like a taco) I've gotten paranoid. I'm not sure if a plastic canoe would do that, but you probably don't want to see your investment bouncing down the road in the rear view mirror.

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Ratchet straps on a kevlar canoe will fold a canoe in half. They aren't meant to be ratcheted down.

WHatever you mount your canoe to, I use a foam block or foam pipe insulation where the boat touches the car or rack. This allows the foam to compress and give you a non-slip spot rather than the gunwale of your canoe sliding on the roof or against the roof rack.

I use a camlock style strap. It is locking, but it doesn't ratchet down. You pull the strap tight with your strength and that holds it tight. I use two of these over the top of the boat and then I use a safety strap on the front of the boat and occasionally one on the rear.

The front and rear ropes are not meant to "tie down" the boat. They are for safety and stability. Trying to wrench down on the forward most and rear most portion of the boat will make it more unstable and will stress the boat. If you tie the safety ropes in an "A" shape this controls side to side and provides extra strength in case something does happen.

I've been hauling canoes longer than I've been driving. My first canoe was a Coleman RamX 15 that I won in a raffle before I could drive. That canoe is still behind my house and will be going turkey hunting with me and the end of the month. I've had that boat 18yrs now and its still a great canoe. It is heavy, but very durable and stable.

When strapping a canoe down, simpler is better as long as its sturdy. Sturdy does not mean you need a winch to secure it. With two straps on my boat I can shake the whole car by pushing on the boat. If that works, then its good enough. I add the safety ropes and hit the road.

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I did see you have a Yaris, so strapping it down to a small roof will make it more difficult to secure since the boat is likely as long as the car and provides little surface area to mount to, but should still handle it with a little trial and error. We put our boat on a FOrd Focus and the arch of the roof complicates things but I've got it down now.

For the best system, look into a roof rack made for your car. This will simply everything and give you the most secure way to carry a canoe or anything else.

Your price was a good deal if the motor works. Otherwise its a little much. The tabs for a canoe is $24 for a 3 yr sticker.

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I came up with a few transporting ideas so I guess the canoe is just a canoe has lots of scratches from obvious use I can tell it still has a good shape and the metal parts are still intact and in good shape now that the snow and ice are starting to melt off the canoe. It has a distinct fishy smell a bit has lots of scratches and gouges but no holes. Overall I am trying to sell it for what I got it for if not I'll just keep it for 258 I got the canoe motor paddles what else do I need to get out on water except the tabs and trolling motor battery? good enough at least I wont have to worry about scratching or damaging a cleaner canoe that I could have baught for more

by the way the trolling motor all it says is 222T no maker name I have no Idea what kind of battery to get for it, the batteries run for how long? how long can I charge and keep using one battery?

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