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Homemade duck boat blind


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Question for everyone! I went to buy an Avery fold up blind at the Big C and they are back ordered for 6 to 8 weeks. Since my duck boat is only 12 foot, I am considering making my own frame out of 1/2 and 3/4 inch conduit. Just would like everyones opinion as far as a scissor blind or a piano style blind. Or any construction of blind material that has worked for the DIYer's out there. Thanks in advance!

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Bigfish, i agree with both of them, KISS and use natural cover. I built this little hide last friday night before opener in about an hour and when i got out to the spot in the morning i added a bunch of cattails. it worked out pretty good on my little 12 footer. Mines only one sided right now but the spots I plan to hunt right now that's all i need.

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All i did was make a basic frame out of 1x1's that clamps to the seats and had the burlap fastened at the top. When it's up the burlap goes down into the water and extends back far enough to cover most of the motor. When its it folded down you can move around in the boat and load it in the truck no problem.

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I have made a couple scissors style blinds and I like them a lot. I would use 3/4 conduit or aluminium which is what I used on my current boat. I attached brackets to the side of the boat and then use pins to attach the frame to the brackets. Four pins and the blind could be removed. I have small diameter rope on the top poles with a D type itring and another plain ring on the other side. Pull the ropes together and attach to hold the blind up. I also added straps so the frame only comes up so far and stability. Just make sure the frame fits entirely inside the boat when collapsed. I also made the nets extra long to wrap around the front and back over the motor.

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I made one just last weekend as well. Used: 3/4 conduit, 6 bolts with nylon nuts, I used some snow fence for something to connect the grass to. I figured what height I wanted to to be at and made support posts that could rest on the middle seat and used a folding chair pad to keep from scratching up the pretty duck boat;) just used 3" straight pins to connect at the sissors on the front and back. The support posts help when you have to do it by yourself. I connected the grass to the snow fence with zip ties. It seems to be rock solid and got it done for around $200. $150 was for the quick grass. You may not have to use a pipe bender, but two of us got the blind done in around 3 hours and it was much easier than using fittings. I connected the blind to the boat using topper clamps which makes it quick to detach. On a side note, I used a thin plastic green snow fence which does shine a little, but you don't notice it under the grass.

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Made my own as well- using just PVC Pipe. Very easy. All you need to buy is One 10' length of 2" PVC, and a few 1" PVC Lengths, some "T" PVC Connectors, PVC Glue, Metal Pipe Straps and some Spring Lock Pins.

Base/Holder: Cut the 2" PVC to use as holders for as many supports as you're looking for- make these anywhere from 4-6 inches long. Use the Metal Pipe Straps to connect these to your boat. Then, at the bottom of these PVC Holders, simply drill in a run-of-the-mill screw, which will act as a rest or stop for the holder (which is the 1" PVC) that you'll insert into them.

Supports: Cut the 1" PVC into the lengths that will allow for the blind height that you're looking for. These will be inserted vertically into the 2" holders that you made and connected to your boat. At the top of these 1" Supports, Glue your "T" PVC Connectors in order to just give a little extra support for your burlap, as well as giving yourself the option to bungee the burlap to the support on a windy day- the "T" gives something for the bungee to grab.

Fastening: After you get the 1" PVC with 'T's inserted vertically into your bases, you'll want a way to make sure they can fasten in. With the 1" PVC inside of the base, use a drill and horizontally drill a hole through both the base and the support. Through those holes, you'll slide the spring lock pin though, and then lock it in order to secure. (NOTE: You'll want to number your supports to coincide with the bases, so you can take them out after a hunt, and then when you re-connect them for the next hunt, you'll have the right ones going together. If you don't- you may have a hell of a time getting the 'pin' lock holes to line up.)

To hunt, all that you have to do is pull out the supports, slip them into the bases, throw the pins in to lock them in, and drape your burlap- with the option to secure with bungees over the tops on the 'T's.

-Cobber

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