Summer Storage

[Dr. Bob]

Hey Guys -

Is there any of you hardcore snowmobilers still lurking here?

I would like to know how you guys put your sleds up for the off season. I just got back into machines this past winter (after many years) and bought a couple of "90" Indy Sports and a "94" Indy Wide Trak. I sure could use some advice on how to store them.

I drained the gas out of them, refilled with fresh stuff and treated it with Sta-Bil according to the directions on the bottle. Then I fired them up and let 'em run for 5 full minutes to make sure the new gas ran completely through the carbs.

My question is: Is it best to fog them and then shut them off - leaving the treated gas in the carbs? Or should I shut the gas off - run the carbs dry, pour oil down the spark plug holes and then turn 'em over a few times?

A friend of mine owns a Cat and he said his dealer told him it is unnecessary to fog machines if you run the carbs dry because when they run out of gas the injectors shoot extra oil into the mix and it automatically coats everything. He also said by doing this you do not leave gas sitting in the carbs all summer that will evaporate leaving gunk in the carbs. Could this be true???

Any input would be MUCH appreciated!

Dr. Bob

[Surface Tension]

Your friend is right. You can also use the stable and leave the bowls full and start your sled a few times in the summer.
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Now is the time to greese your sled too. The greese will push out any water that made its way into your bushing. Winter time is to late,all the water will be froze. Another thing I do is pull the muffler with steal wool,just dont forget to take it out.

[This message has been edited by Surface Tension (edited 04-28-2002).]

[Dr. Bob]

Thanks Surface Tension,

That sounds like a plan!!!

Dr. Bob

[Gissert]

There are many different thoughts on weather to fog a motor or not.

Personally, I like to fog the motor. Engine fog is specifically designed cling to internal surfaces. Engine oil will run down the walls over time. Engine fog also coats crank bearings and the needle bearing on the connecting rods. Bearings can form rust over the summer.

Picture this scenario: A tiny bit of rust forms on the needle bearings on the connecting rod. This rust leaves a few pits in the chrome surface of the needles. Next winter, when the sled gets used, this bit of rust/pits start to flake off the chrome covering on the needles. This lets heat build up, and the bearing begins to gall the crankshaft. This heat begins to build up and transfer to other parts of the engine, and after a bit, your engine may be introduced to Mr. Squeaky.

It may take a couple hundred miles for this to manifest itself, but a $5.00 can of engine fog is cheap insurance.

Having said all that, I know plenty of people who stabilize their gas (I like seafoam), grease the skids, drain the carb bowls, and put a couple ounces of into each cylinder. They skip the fog routine, and have suffered no ill effects.

I strongly suggest that the carbs be drained fully. Even if stabilized fuel sits in the bowls, it will evaporate over time and leave nasty sludge in the carb that can plug jets the following year. Again, this is good way to meet Mr. Squeaky.

Starting the sled every couple weeks is another option too, as long at the engine gets up to a high enough operating temp to drive off any moisture that will form when the engine is initially started. This can take as long as a half an hour at idle.