Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Mid-summer creeping charlie


LightningBG

Recommended Posts

I just picked up a piece of property that has really bad creeping charlie.

Any thoughts on how to control it at this time of year?

Yard is probably 80% shade, 20% sun, if that matters at all.

Any thoughts are appreciated.

My dad says Borax, but I figured I'd get other options if there are any out there.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

wiki has a good discussion.

I will certainly check that out. And I didn't mean to be lazy and not look. Wasn't sure if there are specifics for various regions. I also did look at the info from the Univ of Mn Extension.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Our property had a bunch of it, but within the last two years, w ehave managed to curb it back. We use Ortho Weed b Gone that is meant ofr Chickweed, Clover, and Akalis. Applying in mid summer won't get you far. You may have to harvest some of it by hand and then apply the chemical in fall. I applied one dosage in early september, one on October, and one in November if the snolw can hold off. In spring, I put a couple dosages out before May.

With Creeping Charlie, it is a war of attrition, but patience will get you far.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, after some inspection and consideration, I'm pretty sure if I kill the creeping charlie on this property, there will be very little left.

So....

What are peoples thoughts on...In the late summer, spraying the whole yard with roundup, killing everything, lifting up whats there, and also regrading, as there are lots of ruts and bumps and dips, putting down some black dirt, install a sprinkler system and reseeding?

Am I crazy?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guess that depends on how much money you want to spend and how much work you want to do.Do you intend to keep the property for 5+ years or what? IMO folks are in way to much of a hurry to buy a load of dirt. What's wrong with the stuff you have? Tough to wear it out. Probably just compacted from equipment.

Gassing it and cleaning up all the dead stuff including the clumps of roots is a lot of work. I would do a good aeration and seeding in Sept. and gas Charlie with a product like Momentum FX2. Do some fertilizing in Sept and mid to late October and you will be surprised at how well things turn out.

As for ruts and holes - likely the dirt didn't go away. Till the area and smooth it back out and things will be fine.

I'm not a fan of sprinklers. To many people put too much water on their lawn. I seldom water the grass and I am often told I have one of the nicest lawns in the neighborhood.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, after some inspection and consideration, I'm pretty sure if I kill the creeping charlie on this property, there will be very little left.

So....

What are peoples thoughts on...In the late summer, spraying the whole yard with roundup, killing everything, lifting up whats there, and also regrading, as there are lots of ruts and bumps and dips, putting down some black dirt, install a sprinkler system and reseeding?

Am I crazy?

First of all, yes you are crazy.

In regards to the lawn it depends on how much time and money you want to invest. It sure sounds pretty far gone. I think I would blast it with roundup in September and have it tilled. Bring in some good black dirt if you need it. Seed it in late September and hope for good snow cover in the winter. I am not big on sprinkling either, Many people water their lawns so much that it doesn't develop a good root system. I don't worry if it goes dormant in the dry periods, it is a natural cycle.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am not big on sprinkling either, Many people water their lawns so much that it doesn't develop a good root system. I don't worry if it goes dormant in the dry periods, it is a natural cycle.

My main reason for the irrigation would be to get through the seeding process. I've seeded yards before that didn't turn out so great due to lack of water. This property is only 1/4 acre, so I could probably handle regular sprinklers. (The other one was 3+ acres and very difficult to keep it all moist. Didn't have any luck with rain on that one either)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

With the shade I would try to keep the grass that is there and kill the charlie this fall with a 3way herbicide like Trimec 992, Vessel or Lesco 3 way. I wouldn't spray it now with the heat we're having as you might find your flowers or garden dead the next day or two. If after you kill the charlie you need to reseed I would rent a slit seeder and seed with a shade mix for the best results. I would be very leery about installing irrigation around the trees especially if they are oaks have seen a lot of oak wilt after irrigation installs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

How much of the shade are you trying to keep?

Do you have any plans to thin out the trees so the grass gets more sun?

If not, look into expanding or installing planting areas more than grass.

You can have more than 50% shade, or you can have grass, but it's very difficult to have both.

Your grass will always have a weak root structure, you'll want to mow it more than 4" tall, and it'll always want to lay over, it's just the way grass is with more than 50% shade.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.