Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Replacing treble hooks on muskie lures


Recommended Posts

Hi, y'all!

Being I just started muskie fishing last year, I have a few lures now. Sadly, when I took them out of the storage box recently, I discovered ugly, festering rust and corrosion on the treble hooks shocked.gif. I guess that's what happens when lures are stored with any moistute on them. I an definitely going to use a different storage method (milk crate and pvc tubing as noted on previous post is worth a try) to help keep those lures dry. Needless to say, those treble hooks gotta go! My question is this: where can I get the right size treble hooks for a muskie sized lure? I have checked at Gander Mt. and Galyans, and cannot find them in that size (I could be blind cool.gif. Are there different sized treble hooks that I should be concerned about, or does "one size fit all"? Also, the paint on my Believer has chipped away due to the action around the joint. Does anybody have suggestions as to how I can stop this from getting worse? e.g. nail polish?

------------------
<><<><<><
Calvinist
><>><>><>

[This message has been edited by CALVINIST (edited 03-23-2004).]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

For replacement hooks you could yry rollie and Hellens at muskyshop.com. You can also be sent a free catalouge.Thorn Bros should have tem also. I have been useing Inhibitor strips in my boxes while there stored for the winter. They work great so far.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Calvinist,

I was just in a Gander Mountain a few days and seen some replacemnt hooks, they were in the same isle as the rest of the muskie baits. Another option is to call Stamina Inc and get a catalog or visit their site staminainc dot com, they have many diffenent manufactures to choose from.

As far as hooks size go, the most common sizes you will see are 3/0, 4/0, and 5/0. Some of the smaller lures had 2/0 and the bigger ones had 6/0 and 7/0.

Another thing to look at is are the hooks long or short shafts? Also Some lures don't come with Split rings attached so you'll have to cut them off and replace with split rings, not to worry there aren't too many lures that lose their action to this, and some folks like it better.

Another option with those rusty hooks is a drummel tool with the wire attachment, I do this to my lures every so often, usually when I'm going through and sharpening hooks.

The best way to stop the paint flaking would be to pick up some envirotex, it's like a weather proof epoxy. I hear you can get it at Menards and Home Depot, there will also be some in the Stamina Inc catalog or HSOforum.

Good Luck

RU

Link to comment
Share on other sites

One thing with lures and hooks to watch out for is the effect a new hook will have on the action of the lure. Some baits are really fussy while others it does not matter. Glide baits and Jerk baits can be real sensitive to hook changes while bucktails it might not matter at all. You can have a $30.00 bait that does even work right after changing hooks just because the hook style or size you put on is different than what the manufacturer had on the bait.

Try to match the same hook type and size of the baits original hook style, especially on glide or jerk baits. Take your old hooks to the bait store to ensure you get the right type and size.

Another thing to note is to make sure the hooks lay against the lure like other hooks on the bait.

David Swenson
http://muskieguide.homestead.com/

[This message has been edited by David Swenson (edited 03-25-2004).]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I Change hooks on lures often, like my friend Dave says, you need to be aware of how a different hook, will effect the action of the bait.

The rust inhibitor, that was mentioned on a previous post, is a great idea, I use them myself.
Let all your baits dry off before you store them away, especially bucktails. smile.gif
Most of the good muskie shops, will carry several brands of replacement hooks. Most baits have 3/0's or 4/0's, however there are several different kinds that you can buy.
There are the Xtra wide gap and Xtra heavy, the longshanked, thin wire and so on..... smile.gif

------------------

Terry "Ace" Sjoberg
aceguideservice.com
Lake Vermilion
Muskies and More.

Pro Staff Member.
Catch-n Tackle.
CKat Custom Muskie rods.
Bearpaws Handpoured Baits
Ohio Pro Lure.
Muskie Nut Tackle.
Big Chimney Muskie Baits.
Marcum.

[This message has been edited by guideman (edited 03-25-2004).]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all of the good info you boys have given me. I will put it to good use wink.gif I checked out the Thorne Bros. on the net. Man, that is some big fish store or what! A guy has to hold onto his wallet in there, right? Anyway, I will have to go there in person some time and see all those yummy lures for myself. shocked.gif

Calvinist

[This message has been edited by CALVINIST (edited 03-26-2004).]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.


  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.