Trolling Setup/Lures

[musky999]

Last year I got into trolling big lures for northerns and musky. It worked from time to time, but this year I would like to expand on it. I have cranks/jerkbaits (suicks) any where from 6in raiders, and 7in slammers to 10 jakes and 13 squirellys jakes (also a double d and a triple d). What other baits would you recommend for trolling the 10 to 20 foot range (80lb pp, 100ft+ back), keep in mind I am looking for northerns also. As for rod and reel, right now I have a BPS 7 foot 6in flippin stick that has worked great ( it gives quite a bit, which is good for jerking , with a abu revo s). I am looking at getting a new setup for trolling these lures. The combo would have to pull up to 13in Grandmas and jerk suicks. What are your suggestions? I love the abu reels, so the winch looks pretty enticing. So I guess I'm looking at a rod and reel combo that can handle jerk trolling with suicks and running cranks as big as the 13in Grandma.

Thanks,

Musky

P.S. The big lure kept most of the little snakes off, but it is amazing what a 19in northern will hit.

[HugoBox]

You're doing pretty well with the setup you have. While its tempting to get hung up on backbone, RK has stated more than once on here that you have a ton of boat already setting the hook for you just due to momentum. I actually switched to a cheap cat rod that glows at night so I can still see the tip thumping. You'd swear this thing wouldn't perform well but I was very happy. I also think a lot of guys use the cheapo Shimano (TDR maybe) for about $39. Having the drag set properly is very helpful in keeping them pinned once they eat. Ive been told (and it works) that the drag should pay out a bit if you hit the throttle. Sharp hooks (or lack thereof) have probably been my biggest cause for trouble. Now I'm a hook sharpening freak when trolling.

Some guys use LC reels for trolling and I would too, just haven't dropped the cash on one yet. Counting passes of the levelwind or using a bobber stop knot will help you stay at a consistant depth once you find them. FWIW I e probably been bit more when trolling after a hard turn when I get off course or a shot to the throttle- no secret here changes to speed or direction are triggers. Your baits are all solid. I'd add a believer as well- I dig jointed ones but I know they all work. If you find one that doesn't run true- kicks out from time to time without totally blowing out you have a winner. Don't hesitate to go shorter than 100 feet on the line you let out- especially in clear water they'll come up to hit a bait. I haven't interviewed musky yet so I dot know for sure but I think they are less apt to feed down. If you have too much line out you may end up under them.

Sorry for he novel and I know you only asked about gear but in the past few years I've really started to troll more. Used to be my "nothing else is working" tactic but I've found that trolling can be a good first option if you have the mindset to stick with it.

Good luck!

[mainbutter]

I put a jake or jointed believer on my casting rod, put it in the rod holder, and let line out as we begin to troll. I usually only let out 50-70 or so feet.

My buddy and I like to change up directions and speeds. when making multiple passes over reefs. We tend to keep it more steady when following a long break however.

[RK]

Hiya -

Good stuff here already, but a couple thoughts.

1.) No need to get anything fancy with rod choice, and in fact cheaper is probably better. a Shimano Dipsey Diver rod, which you can find for about $40, is a great muskie trolling rod.

2.) For lures, Believers, Jakes, and the like.... If you're looking for pike, 8" Believers and Little Ernies are both great. Big Ernies too for that matter. Troll with a shorter line if you need to run it shallower. Depth Raiders also a very solid trolling bait. Most overlooked: Bomber Magnum Long As.

[Nick Kuhn]

If you want pike, put on a polish shad. Man they love that thing. I almost have to replace mine from bouncing it's lip off rocks too much. Also overlooked, Mag Rapalas.

[skibass]

Why are cheaper rods better? Isn't it harder to tell when your lure is fowled up with weeds with the limp noodle rods? Can the flex of the rod be compensated by loosening the drag? Reading the posts on here make me think that the rod may be the reason I have missed so many fish right after the strike while trolling. I keep my hooks sharp but use heavy action rods most of the time.

[HugoBox]

I think the deal on the cheaper rods are that slower action helps you absorb the shock of the hit and the subsequent headshakes. At 3+ MPH with braid and a stiff rod you don't have a lot of margin for error if the fish goes haywire. Also, if you put the rod in a holder you could end up with a broken rod or holder if you aren't careful. You don't have to go cheap if you don't want. TB and Custom X will happily sell you a trolling rod for $200+ but I don't think you need it and I'm a rod whore and really wanted a reason to get one. I had a TB troller in my hand ready to pull the trigger but decided to try a cheapo first - glad I did. When throwing baits the action is a bigger deal as it helps you dictate the action of the bait - when trolling it just plain doesn't matter. I was worried a bit about seeing the tip move on a soft rod but have found that if you pay attention you can even spot when a little floating weed fouls the bait. There are also some good tips for keeping the bait weed free. The best I've found is to slit cut halfway down a straw length wise so that it is quartered and slide it down the line to where your leader is tied on (you made need to add a bead). put it on so the solid part of the straw meets the leader - bend the slitted pieces out so the look like an umbrella without the fabric. Those pieces will catch or deflect weeds so your lure can run longer without being fouled. (I hope that description makes sense.)

Also, I really fell in love with the Shallow Invader as a trolling bait last year - I got up to about 7 MPH before it blew out so its very versatile. The only downfall is that the hook hangers are too close together - I removed the back one and replaced the front one with a 7/0 and it really worked well.

[Ice Wolf]

Why are cheaper rods better? Isn't it harder to tell when your lure is fowled up with weeds with the limp noodle rods? Can the flex of the rod be compensated by loosening the drag? Reading the posts on here make me think that the rod may be the reason I have missed so many fish right after the strike while trolling. I keep my hooks sharp but use heavy action rods most of the time.

I think when trolling over weeds you could use a medium - heavy power with fast action rod so when you hook some weeds the rod snaps back quicker to break off the weeds. Over rocks or Open water trolling I use a slow action rod that is made out of fiberglass which cost less then graffite. I think you need the flex in the rod to get a good hook set when using braided line. And have the drag set on the lighter side. I had a big pike hit a crankbait when trolling and I had the drag set too tight. First I thought my rod holder was going to break when it hit the lure. When I got the fish in the net and removed the lure most of the hooks got bent out of shape from the strike. I was lucky that the lure did not get ripped out of the pikes mouth when it hit.

[mainbutter]

On the "why cheap rods" question:

The rods made from cheaper materials are actually better at fighting fish than the rods made from the most expensive graphite. You'll be less likely to lose a fish that you've hooked.

[wbliceman]

@HugoBox... What length cat rod are you using for trolling?

[HugoBox]

@HugoBox... What length cat rod are you using for trolling?

My mainstay is 7.5- I think made by Berkley. It's gimmicky but you put batteries in and it lights up so it's easy to see the tip thumping in the dark. I fish a lot at night and if anyone it out with me I'll tape one of those little glow sticks that fit into bobbers to the tip. Nothing worse than finishing a trolling run and hauling in salad. Angling the rod holder down so the tip stays submerged helps too.

[RK]

Hugo -

Along with putting your rod tip in the water...try this: Take a 12" long piece of nylon string trimmer string, and tie it in an overhand knot above your leader, so it rests against the swivel (assuming you use a long trolling leader. Doesn't change lure action, but really deflects floating weeds. Learned it from a guy who fishes Lake St Clair...

Skibass, other guys pretty well answered the cheap rod question, but the main thing is it helps keep fish hooked. If you have a stiff rod in a rod holder, even if your drag is set right the fish can get slack when they head shake, and throw the hook, or just plain pull them out because the rod doesn't absorb enough shock. With a softer rod, they never get slack line. I lose very very few fish I hook trolling.

Cheers,

RK