Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Question about which weight line to use.


IceIceBaby

Recommended Posts

I'm really talking about any fish (mostly walleyes or smaller). That's kind of my point. Why not use a heavier line? (to a degree....I'm not talking about using 10 lb for crappie). There must be a reason, or everyone would be using heavier line. But, I keep hearing about using 4 or 6 lb main line and then tying on the same or lighter fluorocarbon leader. If you're using an appropriate leader, why should it make a difference if you're using a heavier main line?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I was looking at another thread, and they were talking about fishing with blades baits and slender spoons and were specific about using 4 or 6 lb flourocaron leaders and 5 or 6 lb main line. I just wonder why you have to be so specific about main line if you're using the right leader. Why not 8 lb or 10 lb just to be on the safe side? I'm just trying to learn.

Al

Link to comment
Share on other sites

then it really doesn't, too thick might jam up a reel? All of my northern pike leaders are under a foot to the mainline, so they can see the the mainline. Also the lighter the line, the more you can fit on the reel.

This is a shot in the dark, but its possible those two line weights knot together best.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Iceice - the smaller lines translates to greater sensitivity and faster sink rates with smaller lures.

As the lines diameter increases you have increased adhesion with the water. Also, the additional mass of thicker line dulls the strike transmitted to your rod tip, the momentum transferred is distributed through a larger more massive system.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you have the right mainline weight, then you wouldn't need a different leader. LOL.

Anyway there are lots of different reasons to line join with different line weights. Line sensitivty is relative to amount of line stretch. Generally, you will want the strongest line that will still allow you to give your lure the right presentation technique. So when someone mentions a specific line test strength, it is generally saying that going stronger/thicker will dull the lure's action.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I fish almost exclusively panfish. I use very small lures. With a line more than 3-4lb test my jig may not even straighten the line out, especially in deeper water, that means missed bites/fish. I mostly use 2 lb for that reason, I break lines sometimes but the extra sensitivity allows me to feel more bites make more hook sets, and have the opportunity at more fish. This extra sensitivity brings more fish up the hole for me than I have break offs.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
    • Chef boyardee pizza from the box!
    • Or he could go with leech~~~~~
    • Bear can relate too. Tell Leech to start a new account named Leech5, we'll know who he is.If he has any trouble, Bear can walk him through it.
    • Blessed Christmas to all.  
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.