Jump to content
  • GUESTS

    If you want access to members only forums on HSO, you will gain access only when you Sign-in or Sign-Up .

    This box will disappear once you are signed in as a member. ?

Shooting outside holiday lights


Recommended Posts

Maybe it was the fact that I was in a hurry or that I was balancing on my roof with a tripod eek but i'm not getting the results that i would like.

Here is the situation: We live out in the country in 2 1/2 acre lots and my neighbors decorate better than the Grizwalds. At first it starts out annoying because there are so many light, but the closer to christmas it gets, the better it appeals to me. So I'm about 400 - 450' away from the majority of the lights from my roof top to their yard.

I have a 7D along with the canon 24-70IS. I have shot some fireworks at night and tried using settings similar to those but the lights seem to be clumping together. (note that I didn't have time to download them from the camera yet before leaving tonight) I tried low ISO to high ISO, I tried a wide aperature, then mid range then small and even tweaked the metering mode from pinpoint to evaluative and exposing more and less than the meter suggested. By looking at the photos on the screen they either "glow" too much or they seem to dark with not a lot of definition.

Is it simply that I am too far away to get the good detail or possibly be the tripod is not totally stable on the crest of the roof?

Does anyone use a filter to take out any extra white light doing this?

Are the fire works settings going to be my best bet to tweak or should I just look at moving closer? (aperture 7-9, ISO 200, AWB, Landscape Mode, shutter between 2-5 seconds)

I'll post up some of the shots that i took tonight in the morning when I get home.

Thanks

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Mule, you have definitely exposed for the dark background causing over exposure of the lights. This is when you need to shoot manual and take charge of your metering. Take a look at the thread I resurrected from the last few years, that should help answer more of your questions. If not post a shot or two and we can get you on the right track.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Dan, the landscape I noted was not on the dial, but one of the shooting options (cant think of term) such as standard, portrait, landscape, black and white, etc. I was on manual mode on the dial and adjusting according to the meter in the view finder. I'd shoot at even par, then adjust over and then under center to see results at each ISO and aperture adjustment using shutter to float the meter up and down.

I admit it is hard to tell details from a 3" view finder, but it looked like from the distance it was shooting, the lights would blend together on manual focus.

Will know more after work in the morning.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When shooting at night you really need to only adjust one thing at a time. Fix your aperture, shutter speed and adjust ISO. Or Fix ISO, Aperture and move shutter speed, my personal favorite. I don't even use a meter. ISO 100, mid-range aperture and shutter speed to get my results. If you want more ambient light to show through use a higher ISO. In that case I keep my aperture and shutter speed fixed and up the ISO until I get the amount of ambient light I want.

There is no right or wrong way to do this, just the one that works for you. But the key is don't change two things when you adjust for your next shot. Only one thing, shoot adjust, etc until you get what you want. The other key is to set your focus on manual, don't let the autofocus try and work. On the 7D you can put it in live view mode to check your focus. Works nice and night.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well here are a few of the examples.

Turns out that I only shot 15 but being in the position I was in on the roof it seemed like more. I started at a lower ISO and went up. I see as I went up, the worse it got.

I never did try it at 100 like I thought. The other part may be a tripod wobble also.

I'll have to try it again tonight. Looks like I will start at 100 Iso and around a f7 and work from there.

4 sec f8 iso640 45mm

full-17729-15169-1(1024x683).jpg

.8 sec f8 iso 640 60mm

full-17729-15170-2(1024x683).jpg

1.3 sec f8 iso640 60mm

full-17729-15171-3(1024x683).jpg

5 sec f22 iso1600 70 mm

full-17729-15172-4(1024x683).jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you look at the other thread on shooting lights I mention trying to shoot closer to sunset. What will happen as you found out is that you get a sea of lights surrounded by black! Without shooting this HDR you can't capture all the tonal ranges from the bright lights to the dark sky.

Shooting this wide and including much of your environment forces you to shoot earlier or stack your shots unless you want floating lights. Your settings above all look like they are close, just variations on the same basic settings. A three shot HDR to expose for the bright lights, the smaller lights and some of the sky might just be the ticket if you are forced to shoot with complete darkness.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I tried this last year but from the house window at night and I recall it turned out a little better. However, there was lots of snow and i believe there was also a good moon. the lighter background of the snow made for what looked to be a better picture. I guess that's what I was expecting this time.

It actually looks better up close from the road, so i may try to do something in the line of a collage and stitch a few together and see how it looks later in the week.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now ↓↓↓ or ask your question and then register. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
  • Topics

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.