wiring

[DaRangeFinder]

I am doing all of the wiring on my boat for the first time. I have two fish finders, a bilge pump, livewell, bow and stern lights, and a 55lb trolling motor. The trolling motor will be mounted up front alone on a 12v batt. The rest will be running off a battery in the back of the boat. I would like to run everything but the trolling motor off of switches, anyone have any recommedations as to which type of switch is best and most efficient. I currently have a bird's nest I am sorting through from the previous owner and I can't stand it. Just looking for some pointers to do a good job on this, it is for my dad and would like keep it clean and easy.

[marine_man]

I'd decide on which switches you like... in general one switch isn't much better than the next.

Some marine dealers can order a switch panel that has a couple of switches mounted together making installation and appearance a little nicer.

marine_man

[boatfixer]

I agree with MM. If you can find a panel with switches that makes things easier and looking clean.

Try to find one that has breakers or fuses for each load.

Be sure to use marine switches

Solder when possible.

Use shrink tubing over connections

Dont use the 3M "scotchlock" type connecters

Try to run just a pair or of wires (pos and neg) from the battery to your panel. 12 ga should be sufficient and use jumpers/piggy back terminals.

Spend some time on it now instead of slamming it together only to have a headache later.

When I build my own panels, I usually assemble/wire them on the bench. That way its obviously easier to get at and I also can silicone the spade connecters at the switch terminals to help prevent corrosion.

[BoxMN]

I have a switch panel, can't recall the name, but it is the one with silver plate and red rocker switches that light up when on. DON'T get that one. While it is marine, and maybe it didn't SAY waterproof or weather proof (my fault for not looking) it most definitely is NOT weather proof! If it gets rain on it, even with the switches off the red lights will go on and drain battery.

Get one with the rubber around the toggles, as that will at least helkp a bit. I am going to put a master switch/cutoff on my pontoon this year, then I won't have to swap out the panel - just turn it off at night (pontoon stays tied up to doc with no cover).

I would also recommend going to big box store and getting your 8 ga. for troll motor there. Much cheaper than getting "Marine" - I know, others will not agree, but I did that on two boats and a pontoon so far, and no probs at all in many years. I do run them inside plastic tubes though. Good luck.

[boatfixer]

I wont disagree with Box on the wire selection except sticking to the bigbox idea. As long as it is a good grade of wire, it doesnt have to be marine. Dont skimp on wire quality to save money. Pay more attention to splices and connecters.

You can use the highest quality comonents but if you cut corners on installation/connecting, you'll end up doing repairs alter.

I do like the idea of running them in plastic tubing. I would add, however, if you "enclose" them in tubing, either solder and shrink tube the connecters, or keep connecters out of the plastic. If any moisture were to get into the tube with unprotected connections, you may have corrosion issues.