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Pictures of your shack.


SalmonSlayer

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My friend and I are planning out our 2011-2012 ice house and are looking for ideas. We're thinking a 7x12 skid house. If you were to do yours over, what would you make sure to include or exclude. Any pictures showing your floor plan/great ideas would be appreciated. Also, and insight on how to build the floor would be appreciated.

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A buddy and I built our shack before last winter. 8x10 skid house. it probably weighs about 7-800 lbs so its fairly light and easy to move untill you get a foot of fresh stuff on the lake. they plow snow real well. one of the only things we would like to change would be wheels. It is a pain to get it on the trailer, even with a tilt bed sled trailer. and is a lot of work. and make sure you have lots of shelves and cupboards. and dont put your bunks up to high. you need a friends hand to get on and off our top bunk. Not convienient when the bells or rattle reel are going off in the middle of the night. and make some nice latching hole covers if making a skidder. they will open up and pile the house with snow after a long haul across the lake if they dont latch. Good luck

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I've been down the skid-house road before (2 years ago), and my advice is "don't". Even the cheapest, all angle iron crank down frame will be worlds better than trying to crank a 7x12 on a snowmobile trailer. Realistically, you can find someone to build you a frame for that house for $1200-1500. It will be money VERY well spent.

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I definitely agree with the other posters and say that wheels is the only way to go, but since it isn't in the budget- here are a few of my thoughts.

If I were doing a skid house- I would make sure it is a steel bottom frame and skids. NO WAY would I do wood. Wood freezes in to easily and with steel skids, even if they freeze in, they pop out easily when chipped out. Just channel iron about 3-4" below the main frame will work for the skids. If you can go steel for the entire frame- it will be much lighter than wood as you can go with 1x2 steel tubing for the walls and roof.

One thing with the steel frame- if in the future wheels are possible, you would have the frame and just would need someone to add them to your current shack. That is something that may be possible.

Floor layout? I really like having the holes along the walls. I usually make the doors for them 3' long and about 16" wide. I space them about 6" from the wall. This way you can drill 2-3 holes in there and fish easily. Makes it very user friendly for fishing. Also, very easy to drill and redrill your holes.

Good luck.

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Here are some pics of my house from last year:

002.jpg

This was an 8x12 skid house. Skids were treated 2x10s (I think) with a metal runner/ski on the bottom. Pro Rib siding (from Menards), rubber roof.

Inside were the 2 bunks on the back wall

004.jpg

And the door side

007.jpg

I used roll on bedliner for the floor

008.jpg

And here was the outside finished, and on the lake

17356_392823875275_835130275_104-1.jpg

This was a GREAT(!) house, but it sure was heavy, and tough to move. I used 1 1/2" pink foam in the walls, 4" in the floor, and R13 fiberglass in the ceiling. I could have the heat at 85 degrees, and a 20# propane tank would last around 5 days. All LED interior lights + radio would last about 4 days on a deep cycle. Total cost was somewhere around $3500.

I liked this house so much, that I replicated my current house 2010 Fish House Build after it.

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Here is a pic of my house, I know it's smaller than you are requesting, but it may be useful to others. I bought it for $100 last spring. Very simple, framed with 1x1s and it bolts together. It's a total of 8 pieces that I can take apart and stack in the corner of the shop to save space. Very lightweight, heats up quick with a buddy heater. It's a cheap way to have a hard sided house that you can leave on the lake or load into a small trailer or the back of a truck quickly and it can be towed around the lake with a wheeler or snowmobile to get your house on the lake before trucks can get on. With a different floor, it would also make a great spearing house. full-36283-6119-snowremoval210003.jpg

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It was 6 holes. We fished 6 out of there a couple times. It was "cozy", but it worked.

For what the house was (a skid house), I loved it. There was no problems moving it until there was over 6" of snow on the lake. We actually had it out on 5" of ice, and the ice didn't even sag (I don't recommend that, btw).

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I sold my 8 x 10 skid house at the end of last season. I now have a 8 x 16 wheelhouse. World of difference in the moving part.

To get it on the tilt snowmobile trailer, I installed a 12 volt ATV winch on the tongue using a raised stand so the cable didn't rub and made simple rollers out of 2 inch scrap pipe. Still a job, but I could do it myself.

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I built an 8 x 10 this year I did not put skids on it. I dont like it that for off the ice.I just block it up as needed.I have a skid I slide under it when I move it made out of 2 x 6 runners tapered on both ends with 1 x 6 cross pieces dadoed and screwed in place.I made a bracket on each corner out of angle iron with a bottom plate on it to sit under the corner and welded a 4" long pc of square tubing on the outside and fastened that to each corner. when I want to move it I jack up each corner with a farm jack and slide my sled under let it down and away I go.very easy to do by myself and I don't have to sit over the hole to see my bobber

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
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