04 Expedition Heat UPDATE!

[chasineyes]

Ok just let it run for 15 minutes at 8 degree outside temp. The upper radiator hose was still COLD to the touch and the bottom hose was just slightly warmer. And the interior heat wasn't much to brag about after a 15 minute warm up. I'm guessing first step is change the thermostat. Would this imply that it's stuck OPEN and not allowing the coolent to heat up?

THANKS!!!!

[Macgyver55]

Quote:

Would this imply that it's stuck OPEN and not allowing the coolent to heat up?

Thats normally the case.

[Jeremy airjer W]

If it was a GM the check engine light would come on with a code for P0128. Its almost always a bad t-stat. Don't recall if Ford does this or not but I guess most of the time they are over heating and not under heating!

[chasineyes]

Well I changed the thermostat but after driving it to work this morning (about 20 minutes) the upper hose is just "warm" and the bottom hose is still cold. Is this the sign of a plugged core? Am I developing a bigger problem now??

[Macgyver55]

Another though I just had is, have you checked the fan clutch to make sure it is not seized?

[Surface Tension]

You should be able to notice if the fan clutch is seized because its going to create a lot of wind/noise and you'll feel power loss.

Do you have the Defrost on? If so your AC is on. Your going to notice the cab heat a lot warmer with the defrost off.

Have you bled the cooling system of air?

[chasineyes]

The fan clutch seems to be working. After shutting the vehicle off, the fan will spin for about 5-10 seconds before stopping. (However this is a rough sound, like dirty bering sound, coming from the fan during this time) I'm guessing if it was seized it would shut down right away with the engine.

Bleed the air? Do you mean with the truck running, take the cap off the radiator at let it cycle through? That I have not done. I didn't think I would need to since the reservoir is higher than the radiator.

[fishing tech]

Are the heater hoses getting hot? They should be hotter then the upper radiator hose until the stat opens. With the cold temps we had over the weekend the stat may take awhile for it to open.

[Surface Tension]

You should have a air bleed screw somewhere at the highest point of the cooling system. Sometimes it is in the worst spot to get to and recovery of antifreeze impossible. Not to mention if it runs into a spark plug bay. I'm sure one of the guys here can tell you its location or recommended bleed procedure on your vehicle.

When all else fails here is what I do.

If you take the cap off while running you'll end up with antifreeze on the ground and it'll be low again.

Think of the cap as a two way valve. At 15 psi it'll let off excess pressure/ fluid into the overflow/res tank when the antifreeze expands when hot.

When the engine and antifreeze cools it will drawn the fluid back from the reservoir. When cold check the fluid level in the reservoir. Also check to see if your upper radiator hose is collapsed. If it is stop there and replace the cap. If it isn't, make a U out of 12 gauge wire for a shim. Open the valve on the cap by putting a shim between the rubber seal and its mating surface. Replace the cap. Your cooling system is not going to be under pressure and this time of your your not going to have to worry about over heating because your not going to get to the boiling point but just keep and eye on the temp anyway. You now have a place for the air to go when it gets to the radiator, it will go out the cap through the hose to overfill reservoir. Start the car, turn heat on high, and let it high idle at 2500 RPMs. This is going to take a while but if there is air it'll burp into the res.

[fishing tech]

No bleeder on those. If you have driven it and the stat has opened up the air will bleed to the tank. Once the stat open and it is running if the coolant level is at the mark on the tank you should be ok. It should have a cold level mark and or a hot level mark.

[spearchucker]

No bleeder on those. If you have driven it and the stat has opened up the air will bleed to the tank. Once the stat open and it is running if the coolant level is at the mark on the tank you should be ok. It should have a cold level mark and or a hot level mark.

That is correct. They are about the easiest to refill that I have ever done.

[chasineyes]

I'm thinking this is running fine. The thermostat is working and heat is coming out in the truck. So maybe the hoses are cold becuase it's well...cold as s.... outside. Since I'm not overheating I'm not going to worry anymore. By the way, my rear wiper is rusting up and the "motor" doesn't have enough power to drive it. Hoping a little WD-40 will do the trick. Gotta love 100,000 mile vehicles!!!!!

THANKS FOR ALL THE HELP AND TIPS BY THE WAY!!!!

[fishing tech]

With the pivot for your rear wiper being stiff, if it doesn't let the wiper motor park it will drain your battery.

[chasineyes]

Fishing Teach you have MADE MY DAY!!!! Believe it or not I got in this morning to leave for work and that baby was DEAD! I was working with the rear wiper a little 2 days ago. Are you implying that I need to move the wiper itself and drive back to its home position for it to not drain the battery?

Thank you sooo much!

[fishing tech]

When you use the rear wiper you will need to make sure that it parks. easiest way to do it is pop the rear glass open. The motor will park and the line up the wiper and close the glass.

[fishfeeder]

the pivot for your rear wiper that goes thru the back glass is easily replaced and is in stock at most metro ford dealers. there is a cover that snaps over it and I think it has 3 nuts that hold it to the glass. and 1 nut that holds your wiper arm on.