Ok, one last ? about my Old Eski-mo before I bring it in for service

[bobber_down_1979]

So as previously discussed, we talked about ajusting the high speed mix becuase I bog out at high throttle. I also posted yesterday about my fuel line with the inline filter, which I have now replaced with new hose and no filter. Anyhow, the only adjustment that seems to help is to lean out (turn clockwise)the high speed mix screw. However, the best it gets is when I screw it all the way down to the seated position. Even there it is still boggy. I take this to mean it is getting to much fuel at hi rpm's. At this point I am thinking I will need to get it serviced if there is nothing else to try. Keep in mind this was not happening last year, and the whole set-up is the same. Also the gas tank and screen in the tank is clean, and the gas is fresh non 02 gas with seafoam. The mix is 5 oz. per gallan per recomendation from a knowledgable Eskimo employee.

[ihc1]

I would make sure that it is running to rich before doing any more adjusting. It sounds to me like it it running too lean and running out of fuel at high speed. When it "boggs down" at high speed does it seem to just lose power which is too lean or does it start to run rough and smoke from too much fuel at which point it should be leaking some black gooey stuff out the exhaust. A quick way to check if it is too lean is to try and run it with the choke half or all the way on and see if it will run full throttle without bogging. Another thing you can do is push the primer a time or two when it boggs and see it that helps. If either of these things make it run better for a little bit it is running too lean. When adjusting the carb make sure you are turning the right screw for the right engine speed. A good base line starting point for both screws is turned out 1 1/2 turns from a LIHGTLY seated position. The engine should be hot from running for adjusting and the high speed should be adjusted under load . If it is already running too rich you may need to clean or rebuild the carb because the may be some dirt in there holding something open and allowing too much fuel. Hope this helps because I would hate to see a classic die.

[bobber_down_1979]

No man, the more I open the high mix screw the worse it gets. By the time I get it out about 2 full turns, I can't give the engine any throttle without it sort of bogging out and stopping. If I turn it all the way back as lean as it will go (it will run and drill holes), it will go, but will not acheive the same amount of power it did when I used it last year. I do get some dark colored smoke but to be honest, it is nothing that looks out of the ordinary. The carb has been cleaned, but I did not have a new diaphram to put in. I guess I will have to get a full rebuild and pray that works. The things still seems to run and start great, so I can't beleive this can't be fixed.

[ihc1]

Shoot, I thought I had it figured out. I'm sure you already checked this but is the air filter clean and not soaked with gas or oil and is the choke opening all the way. If those are OK I would say carb kit or check the auction site for a new or different carb. There is no reason that cannot be fixed, I beleive that is the same engine as the old jiffy and parts are should be readily avaliable.

[clownshack]

If I had to guess, Bad Crank seals,or possible intake leak. As cheap as a new Eskimo is I can hardly see putting any money in a machine that old if you can't do the work yourself. Did you try a compression test?

[leech~~]

If I had to guess, Bad Crank seals,or possible intake leak. As cheap as a new Eskimo is I can hardly see putting any money in a machine that old if you can't do the work yourself. Did you try a compression test?

That's what I was thinking as well clownshack. Leaking seals.

[bobber_down_1979]

Yah, I hear on the investment part. I probably will not be able to fish much till after x-mas now anyhow so I think I will try to get this checked out now, and see what the verdict is. Depending on cost, I mayhave to go new. This was my dad's auger, so there is some amount of sentimental value.

[ihc1]

I thought about an intake leak or bad crank seal but those conditions will usually make it run lean or not at all.

[leech~~]

One sure way to check for seal leaks is to take a can of 'Gumout" and with the motor running spray it on all the seal areas and see if the rpm's increase at any of them. If it does you have a leaking seal!

[chad austin]

Try spraying starting fluid around the gasket areas in question, if the idle picks up then you have a gasket leak

[leech~~]

Try spraying starting fluid around the gasket areas in question, if the idle picks up then you have a gasket leak

Just a word of caution. Starting fluid's "flash point" is a lot lower then Gumout so if you are spraying it around the out side of a running engine it could flash up if it get's sucked into the air intake! That's why one is for starting an engine and the other is for cleaning it!

[ben karas]

the diaphram on bottom of carb is easy to replace along with the needle and seat, get a carb kit and do your self, take off bottom of carb 4 screws, (nothing will fall out) drop plate gasket and diaphram will eithe be stuck to carb or plate just pay attention to possition of gasket and diaphram diaphram on either top of gasket or vise versa, reassemble new gasket and diaphram the way it came down, after u replace needle and seat , youll need a 5/16" socket to unscrew needle and seat, their is a spring under needle so take down slow, replace with new parts, clean carb and remove jets and also clean with carb cleaner, reassenble and giver a shot cost $15.00, if u cant do it bring it to me would take 20 min! [email protected] ben

[bobber_down_1979]

Thanks for all the help, and especially the details on how to rebuid the carb by Ben. I think I am going to tackle this. If I can get this going myself it would be awsome. Hopefully I will have something positive to report back with. I definatly want to get it going. I bought the unit back from a relative that bought it from my dad before he passed. Plus I have already bought 3 blades at 25 bucks each as the eskimo poeple told me they may not be making more. I figured 3 blades would last me a long time.

[bobber_down_1979]

Anybody know what compression should be?

[ben karas]

at least 80 psi, anything under this it would hinder how it starts!

[harleyharry]

Bobber Down

From the way you explain the engine is running when you make carb adjustments, it sounds like the metering diaphragm is getting old and stiff. When this happens, it will form a concave in the middle of the diaphragm. This will cause the diaphragm to contact the inlet needle, which unseats the needle allowing more fuel into the carb metering well.

A new carb kit will take care of this. If you have good enough compression that the engine starts good, then the compression is good enough. If you have a seal leak, the engine will run at high rpms when the engine is at idle.

Good Luck

Harry