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The Shotgun


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Started working more on a rod I am making for my father for Xmas. He is a huge pheasant hunter so I figured pheasant feathers, and shotgun shells would be a great theme for this rod! all the wraps will be made to look like a 12 gauge shotgun shell.

This will be my first attempt with feather inlays. Anyone got advice. I heard some advice to CP the feather right on an under wrap. Others told me to CP it to an epoxied under wrap. What works best in your opinions?

CP the feather to the thread and than epoxy, or cp the feather to thread that has already been epoxied???

Also, I am trying some new methods for the components. I was shown a hot glue gun technique to attach the eyes, and it works really well. Also I ran across a bunch of bread twist ties and tried that and they work extremely well also! (see pics below)

This is a 7' Rainshadow RX7 blank.

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The Butt wrap where my feather inlay is going to go.

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Bread twist ties to secure components to the blank

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Depending on the color of feathers you use, you may want to use a lighter color under wrap. This will allow the feathers to "pop" a little better. If you do not use cp on that thread before you finish it, it will turn dark red to maroon. Definitely a cool theme though, and the butt cap looks sweet! On the few feather inlays I have done, I used cp to "lock" the feathers down to an underwrap that had no finish on it and they worked well.

Good luck!

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Got a couple eyes to wrap and it will be ready to lay down some epoxy soon! I noticed a blemish on one of my wraps. I Might redo it but I was wondering if anyone has used denature to clean a wrap that you already laid down. If so how did it work and did it disturb the thread work at all?

What do you do to clean off wraps that might have gotten some dust/dirt on them?

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Another question is I laid down this sticker and put a bunch of CP on it to help hold it down. My question is... Do I need to clean up the access CP with some alcohol or can I put epoxy right over it all. There is some residue but its kinda hard to see and I am thinking once the epoxy is over it you wouldn't even be able to tell.

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I have used plain alcohol and it came out OK, but that was be for the CP. If it is really dirty, I think you may smear things tho.

I am really fussy about keeping things clean when I am wrapping. I mean could be considered a OCD about it.

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Im not to worried about this rod. My dad is fussy about his fishing rods, and he likes his store bought over custom. However he did like the way mine is that I made. If anything hes going to have a conversation piece at the cabin to show people instead of using it.

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I always wipe my wraps with alcohol before covering them. You never know whether you left a finger print that won't show up until after you lay the finish. It is important like upnorth said to be very clean with your work. But, I can't handle thread with rubber gloves so there is always that chance of transferring oils and crud.

As far as a small error/glitch, I have rewrapped many a guide, but hand made products no matter what are going to have slight "issues". Its what sets them apart. Some folks even do it purposely. We aren't building to look like the commercial ones. Its the craftsmanship, balance, and uniqueness that make them great.

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I always cover my wraps with CP and make dang sure I don't touch them with my fingers or anything after that. I had the finish on one rod go bad because of greasy finger prints. Didn't need a complete wrap but a couple extra coats of finish to get it looking good.

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I went over my sticker with CP a few times to ensure it was going to stay! Layed down some epoxy last night and had no issues with the edges raising. Bad picture but next I am going to attempt to add a feather. Been practicing with feathers and CP its a bit tricky to get it to lay right.

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Hey Pure,

I'm going to be building a similar rod to yours very soon. The customer wants a hunting theme spinning rod with a shot gun shell for a butt cap. Do you recall what the outside diameter of the shell was? I'm waiting for the customer to bring me a 12 gauge shell but I'd like to get started making the handle.

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Hey Pure,

I'm going to be building a similar rod to yours very soon. The customer wants a hunting theme spinning rod with a shot gun shell for a butt cap. Do you recall what the outside diameter of the shell was? I'm waiting for the customer to bring me a 12 gauge shell but I'd like to get started making the handle.

You know I am not sure but it think it was bigger than the inside diameter of butt cap. So I didn't want to go beyond the inside diameter. When I epoxied it I actually pushed down on the rod as firm as I could for the 15 mins while the epoxy set. Pushing down on it made it become flush with the buttcap.

As for the shotgun shell. Are you using the shotgun shell as a buttcap? or using the shell as an inlay? If you are using a 12 gauge shell for a butt cap I might suggest using a 16 gauge shell. I have a .12 gauge shotgun shell with me right now (from my car) but no caliper to measure it for you. I do know that the 12 gauge shell is just slightly bigger than a US Nickel. I am assuming you are turning a wood handle. If the client cant get a shell to you fast enough let me know I can bring one over to ya. I might be going to Midwest to get some stuff soon, so I could bring it there as well and leave it there for you.

One thing I would ask your client is: "do you reload your own ammo?" I didn't waste my time with tearing apart a unused shotgun shell. It also isn't very safe taking one apart, even though I've done it several times before (when younger of course). If possible or you know someone that does reload ammo, have them put a new primer cap in the shell for you. I think the finished product would be a bit more appealing seeing what appears to be an unfired shell!

Another thing is perhaps fill the inside of the shell with some epoxy or something that will limit air flow. Although it will not completely seal it, it will make it easier when epoxying over the shell. I epoxied over the top of the shell and had to leave my rod standing vertical for a while to ensure a nice flat surface. I checked it now and than and got all the air bubbles out and than left it sit over night and when I checked in the morning I saw two new air bubbles I didn't catch.

Let me know if you want me to drop off a shell or two for you if you want. Also would you prefer brass or nickel? And also let me know if you have any questions about cleaning out the inside of the shell if you are cutting off the plastic part or some of the plastic.

Ill shoot you my number.

Nick

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Thanks Andy,

Looks like 20 Ga is the way to go. Your measurement is just a hair under 13/16" and that's pretty close to 3/4". Do you have an empty 20 Ga shell? The guy the rod is for has a reloader so I'll get a "fresh" empty shell from him w/o powder...just a new cap. But if you have one at least I can use that for setup.

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