Epoxy Finish Techniques

[A.W.Wolfram]

One would like to believe that there is as many ways to apply epoxy as there are colors of thread.

When it all comes down to it, epoxy binds to the thread and creates a protective coating for the wrap.

Some want it to be perfect, no bubbles, full tunnels, uniform thickness, strait lines with even reveals….ext.

IMHO, There is no right or wrong way.

There are many levels of finish quality. Is that bad, I have rods that are single coated. It dose the job, covers the thread, holds the guide in place. Yes you nac still see the thread. I like to rebuild my go to rods, move layout, change guides. not every rod needs to be a work of art.

Out of all the rod builders I have talked to about this subject, that would actually let you in on there technique, everyone of them did it little bit different.

I have played around with this for years and I find my self playing around with different ideas constantly.

There are lots of things to consider. Brush or spatula, hand turned or drier, how fast of drier, do I use heat, when, before(heat the mix), during(apply then heat to remove excess), after(to remove bubbles).

Do I mention Color Preserver

Well thats my

[upnorth]

Exactly right!! We all do things a little different. I don't build rods on anything resembling a production environment. I normally build 10 to 20 rods a year give or take few. I do them in a way that I find pleasing to me. I certainly don't look down on someone who has a different idea of how things are done and I hope that feeling goes in both directions.

[rushing]

Don't forget different types of finish. Low, high, different brands, ect. All seems to act a bit differently with viscosity, pot life, and drying time. All can effect application techniques. I just think its a matter of finding what you like and learning how to get consistent results out of it.

[upnorth]

A few other things that affect epoxy are temp and humidity. If your work area is a cool your epoxy will behave different if it is in mid to upper 70s.. In the winter my work area is pretty cool and I have to bring in a heater of sorts or the epoxy just won't flow. I have went as far as to take a propane torch on low to heat it up to flow and release bubbles. If anyone wants to try that be VERY cautious, keep that torch 6 to 8 inches from the epoxy or you will literally boil it Been there done that, not good!!!

[Rodbldr4fun]

I have found that laying the epoxy out in tin foil gets the majority of bubbles out before I apply the finish. If there is still trouble, I put the foil on an oil filled space heater on low heat. Also, I use a straw to blow out any bubbles after application. The finish seems to simply bulge/flow, allowing the bubble to burst. I had quite a bit of trouble until I switched to U40. It seems to be more forgiving.

[upnorth]

I usually put the epoxy bottle in warm water for a few minutes to warm it up so it will mix easier. Then I slowly mix until clear, pour it out on a tinfoil bowl, blow out the bubbles(don't like to heat it at all until it is on the rod as it shortens the cure time) I then apply the epoxy to fill the tunnels, then apply it to the guide wraps, then the butt wraps, then cover what ever I used for a butt cap. Turn 180 degrees every 2 to 3 minutes for about 15 minutes, hit with some heat to help release any residual bubbles, turn 180 degrees again every couple minutes and wick off any excess sags. The intervals in turning keep increasing and after a couple hours in goes in the dryer. Leaves a nice flat smooth finish.

[Rodbldr4fun]

Yes, I ran into the pot life issue and found once I went to U-40 I don't seem to have the bubble problem to warrant heating the epoxy. I heat the resin hardener in the mirowave for about 10 seconds per the U-40 mixing instructions.

I use a fairly slow turning motor and end up with a good, level finish. If there is excess resin on the threads, I take it off with my brush. I also fill the tunnels before doing the wraps. I found that if I fill the tunnels until the tread is saturated, the bubbles don't seem to form from the thread and tunnel space.

I also would rather put multiple thin coats on rather than go with a thick coat once. The resin isn't that expensive and I don't mess things up quite as easily.

[upnorth]

Yeah I agree with the multiple thin coats too.

[Shack]

Good write up Andy and good info guys! Thanks for sharing.