some new ones

[ac777]

I use cedar. You have to experiment with weight placement to get them to swim right.

I see, Do you use leaded weights on the bottom or inset or how exactly do you go about the weighting of it? Sorry for all the questions, but I'd like to give it a try some time.

[shamalex72]

this is from the michigan darkhouse site

Weighing your fish to swim By Mike Holmes

One half of producing a working fish decoy is the carving and painting. The other half, which is equally, if not more important, is the weighing of the decoy so it will swim properly. Basically, a working fish decoy must sink in a relatively slow to moderate speed. It must sink in a horizontal position while at the same time moving in a forward direction. To accomplish the “sinking” part of the equation, the proper amount of lead must be added to the belly of the fish decoy. The way I do this is to first complete your fish decoy carving and seal the wood with a clear finish, I use Krylon Matt finish. This includes inserting the metal fins, temporality. I burn the slots in the side of the decoy for the metal fins using a knife blade tip on my wood burning tool. Do not paint the decoy and add the lead later. The heat from the hot lead will “bubble” the paint. The bare wood fish decoy, with fins on, is now ready to be weighted properly. I take the fish carving and try to find the center of balance, by setting the decoy belly on a sharp edge, like a ruler or even the side of your finger. The decoy should “rock” back and forth, head to tail. Move the sharp edge along the belly, forward or backwards so that the “center of balance” can be found. It usually is not in the center of the decoy. The size and weight of the fins and tail will vary the “center of balance” from fish carving to fish carving. When you feel you have found the “center of balance” on the decoy, mark the belly with a pencil. This will be the rear end (tail end) of the “slot” that will be drilled out to accommodate the liquid lead. The forward end of the slot will vary from decoy to decoy. But as a rule, I like to end the forward slot near the rear of the gills. This extra wood area, forward of the gills, can be used to drill a hole for some lead if it is needed later. Some times in longer fish, I drill a hole between the chin and the gills to give the decoy a little extra forward/downward movement. Now, how do we remove the wood to create the slot for the lead? I have used a hand held drill with bit and I have used my Foredom drill with a Forstner bit. I like the latter, as the Forstner bit leaves a cleaner hole. It can also be used in the hand-held drill. Draw a centerline from the rear pencil mark on the belly of the decoy, to the line near the rear of the gills. Start drilling holes, using the centerline as a guide, overlapping each hole with the next hole. I drill the holes in depth (very important) about 1/3 the height of the decoy. So if the measurement between the belly and the back of the decoy is, say, 3”, then the slot will be 1” deep along the length of the belly of the decoy. The width of the slot is usually ½ distance of the widest part of the belly. Make sure there is equal wood left on either side of the slot. Also, make sure you drill straight into the interior of the decoy. If you angle the drill, the decoy will list to one side or the other. It is important at this point to mention the size of the fins on the decoy and their importance. As I stated at the beginning, the working fish decoy must sink at whatever speed the carver wishes, while at the same time moving downward and forward. The “forward” part of the equation is created by the resistance of the water on the underside of the fins. If the fins are to small, and the decoy is to heavy, there will be no forward movement of the decoy. So, experiment with fin size before they are glued to the decoy.

Holding the fish decoy with the belly slot “up”, we can now add the hot liquid lead. I only add enough lead to fill 1/3 of the cavity, at this point. Keep the decoy horizontal until the lead hardens, making sure equal thickness of lead lays in the bottom of the cavity. Wait until the liquid lead hardens before moving the decoy. Caution! It is still hot, but will not “flow” out of the cavity. At this juncture, the working fish decoy is now ready to be placed into a water tank of some sort. I have a 30 gallon fish tank for this purpose. I can see how it swims when I release the decoy. A bath tub full of water can also be used. I have done it, and it works fine. The working fish decoy is placed into the tank head or tail first, up side down, making sure the air space in the belly fills with water, removing the air bubble. Holding the decoy underwater, turn it right-side up. Now, with the decoy being held between your thumb and forefinger, and in a horizontal position, release the decoy. It should sink at a reasonable speed and “swim” forward.

If the decoy sinks slowly, but does not “swim” forward, place a small amount of lead, a few drops, in the forward (head end) end of the cavity. Repeat with one or two drops of liquid lead until it does. The tail can be bent to have the decoy swim in a small or large circle. If the decoy does not sink, add more lead evenly in the cavity, but not much. Make sure all the water has been removed from the cavity before you add more lead, otherwise the lead will “spatter” and burn you. Repeat the process until the decoy swims. This is a tricky process, but after a few decoys, it becomes easy. A point to note here about fish decoys with wood tails, especially on larger decoys. When weighing decoys with wood tails, you will sometimes have to drill one or two holes near the base of the tail, just before the "flare" of the tail fin. The extra wood in the tail sometimes gives the decoy extra buoyancy and will create a "rocking" motion in the decoy as it swims. The holes should be drilled 1/2 the depth of the tail. One or more holes may need to be drilled and leaded, but only drill and fill, one at a time. Sometimes too much lead is added, and a small amount must be removed; a real pain in the butt. Just drill the excess out with a regular drill bit, and retest it. Do not use the Forstner bit to do this.

When the swimming of the decoy is done, let the decoy dry overnight. A light sanding of the decoy the next day, and seal the decoy again with a finish. The lead cavity is now filled with a filler. I use Bondo. It is used by body shops to repair dents, etc. It can be found at most stores like Shopko or Wallmart and at any auto supply store. It is easy to use and does not shrink, but you must work fast for it hardens quickly. Shortly after it hardens, I cut the excess Bondo off with a knife. The longer you wait to do this, the harder the Bondo gets. Let it set for about an hour before sanding the Bondo smooth.

Finally, when the working fish decoy is completed, but not painted, put the decoy back in the tank and, holding again between the thumb and forefinger, find the center again while it is underwater. Move your “grasp” forward or backward and find the location where the decoy is laying horizontal, under the water. That point on the back where your fingers intersect, is the approximate location of where the “line tie” eye will be placed. I use an easier method. I tie a fish line to a “push-pin” and after locating the center spot where I think the decoy will lay level in the water, push the pin in. As it hangs in the water from the push-pin and line, look to see if it is hanging level. You may have to move the pin forward or backward, but at that spot where the pin is attached, is where the screw-eye goes. A true working fish decoy, when held on a line, out of water, will always hang head-up/tail-down. If is doesn’t, chances are it is not a true working fish decoy, just a nice fish carving that the maker is trying to pass off as a working fish decoy. Hope this helps.

[shamalex72]

a few more

[Laska]

look really good, wouldn't mind havin one of those suckers in my collection, like the salamander too!

[BOUNCED]

Nice.

I like that Trout.

Decoy swap?

[ac777]

Nice dekes, and thanks for that write up you posted on the decoy making, I do a lot of wood working, but haven't tried much for carving, so it my be something interesting to try.

[shamalex72]

Nice.

I like that Trout.

Decoy swap?

ya, that would be cool.

[Laska]

sham you going to the gtg?

[shamalex72]

i don't think i am going to make this one.

[Laska]

ok figured since your into trading maybe I coulda added one of your deaks to my collection...

[glenn57]

sham, those the ones you told me about!!!!!!! nice! by the way the boss said had enough!

[Muskysucker]

These are some good looking fish!! I really like the suckers.