Wavey Davey Posted August 3, 2010 Share Posted August 3, 2010 I have a 1992 Northwood that has what I would call a breaker panel on the dash for the electrical accessories instead of a fuse panel, factory original. Above the toggle switches are "breakers" which pop out and then you push them in to reset. The problem I'm having is that when I hit the switch for the bilge pump the breaker trips all the time. I had a marine mechanic check it out this spring and of course it worked fine for him at the time. He checked the bilge pump and it was OK. The bilge pump was replaced a few years ago and he said it's larger than the original and may draw more power. He suggested installing a higher amp fuse and that should solve the problem.Well, I far as I can see there is no fuse, just the breaker. I can't figure out how to get any of the switch/breaker panel apart or remove it from the dash without removing the entire dash which would be a real pain.Although there's not much room to work behind the dash, my plan is to remove the wires that go to the breaker, bipass it and wire in an inline fuse instead. Doesn't look easy due to lack of room to get at the backside.So, any input or suggestions would be helpful. Wondering if anyone else has this type of breaker system and has dealt with it before. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Valv Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 Other manufacturers uses same system, which personally I like better than fuses, since you don't have to carry spares, just reset the button.I have several of them, if you let me know the amps you need I can see if I have any available, and if you can send a picture I can check if mine match yours.To remove it you should be able to just unscrew the black plastic ring around the white button, then breaker will slide out from behind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wavey Davey Posted August 4, 2010 Author Share Posted August 4, 2010 Valv, thanks for the info. I thought that might be the case for removing them. I tried to turn the black plastic ring by hand and it didn't budge, guess I'll have try a little more force. Once I remove it I'll know what amp it is now and then step up in amps. Your description is right on, white button. Figured Sylvan or Smokercraft must be similar, I believe that's who made Northwood. Will be this weekend before I can get to it again. I'll let you know. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SpecialK Posted August 4, 2010 Share Posted August 4, 2010 There also may be a nut on the back of it instead of the front. Has this been happening since you installed the new bilge pump or just a recent happening? If recent, have you checked to make sure nothing is stuck in the impeller area of the bilge pump? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wavey Davey Posted August 5, 2010 Author Share Posted August 5, 2010 The bilge pump worked fine for a couple years after being replaced. I had it done, didn't do it myself. When I had the problem checked this spring, the mechanic took it apart to make sure it was working freely and nothing was stuck in the impeller.It could be a short somewhere causing the breaker to trip. I don't have to use it that often, but when I need it I want it to work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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