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oil level question


EricD

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I have a 2008 Mercury 116 four stroke. I changed the oil last fall. When I got it out of storage, I checked the oil level and it was about an inch over the full mark. I started it and ran it for about 5 minutes and then checked it again - right at the bottom of the hash marks. Then I trimmed it up just a few inches and checked it again - right near the top. Where should the oil level be under what conditions. It's such a drastic change.

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It should be right at the full line with the engine as close to level as possible. Did you run it after you changed oil last fall? When you filled it, did you put in enough oil to the full mark or put in the amount listed on the sticker?

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I filled it up with the amount indicated in the manual, started it up and let it idle 5 minutes and checked it again. The manual said to add to the fill line at that point so I added about another quart. It was the fill line after a short idle. This spring it was very high till I ran it and then it dropped down to near the bottom of the range, all with the motor trimmed all the way down. It's hard to know what's level. Perhaps I should wait till it's in the water and check it then. Trimmed down floating should be level, I imagine.

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I used the Mercury filter from the dealer. Maybe I should ask this question. Should the oil be checked cold or warm? After a short idle/run or when cold before I take it out?

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cold gives you a true reading on the level as it has had time to drain to the case. even if you fire up for a second, you may get somewhat of an inaccurate reading. one some of the big truck engines the manual says that you need to wait a minimum of 45 min after starting to check oil so i use that as a rule of thumb.

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Here is what the owners manual says:

Checking and Adding Engine Oil

IMPORTANT: Do not overfill. Tilt outboard out/up past vertical for approximately one minute to allow trapped oil

to drain back to the oil sump. Tilt outboard to vertical (not tilted) position when checking engine oil. For accurate

readings, check oil only when engine is cold or after engine has not run for at least an hour.

1. Before starting (cold engine) tilt outboard out/up past vertical to allow trapped oil to drain back to the oil

sump. Allow outboard to remain tilted for approximately one minute.

2. Tilt outboard to vertical operating position.

3. Remove the top cowl. Refer to Maintenance - Top Cowl Removal and Installation.

4. Pull out the dipstick. Wipe the dipstick end with a clean rag or towel and push it back in all the way.

5. Pull the dipstick back out again and observe the oil level. Oil should be in the operating range (cross-hatched region).

6. If the oil level is below the operating range (cross hatched region), remove the oil filler cap and add approximately 500 ml (16 oz.) of the specified outboard motor oil. Allow a few minutes for the added oil to drain to the oil sump and recheck the dipstick. Repeat the process until the oil level is on the operating range (cross hatched region). Do not try to fill to the upper end of the operation range (cross hatched region).

marine_man

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Hmm. In the section on oil change, my manual says to run it for a few minutes and then check the level, add oil as necessary. That's what I did and I think it's way overfilled. Here's what the manual says:

OIL FILLING

1. Remove the oil fill cap and add oil to proper operating level.

2. Idle engine for five minutes and check for leaks. Stop engine and

check oil level on dipstick. Add oil if necessary.

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Hmm. In the section on oil change, my manual says to run it for a few minutes and then check the level, add oil as necessary. That's what I did and I think it's way overfilled. Here's what the manual says:

OIL FILLING

1. Remove the oil fill cap and add oil to proper operating level.

2. Idle engine for five minutes and check for leaks. Stop engine and

check oil level on dipstick. Add oil if necessary.

Ok, than I am not crazy, lol. crazy

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