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Hand To Fin Combat, A proven pattern for hooking gargantuan pike durin


Joe

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Up above, I tiptoe across the frozen shallows maintaining a low profile. Stealth is a big part of the game.

Down below, however, it’s more like lions in the Coliseum tearing and tossing-down everything with

blood running through its veins. That’s what it’s like in early winter when northern pike slash through

the shallows with hearty appetites and an equal amount of recklessness.

These apex predators spent most of late autumn roaming the basin, tracking along offshore humps and

deeper secondary breaks. With the flip of a switch, though, they head straight for the shallows – 4 to 12

feet of water – when the surface water solidifies. And there’s no secret to the gravitational pull. It’s

about gorging on the bounty of available forage.

Panfish are standard fare. Bluegills, crappies, and perch are already making use of whatever green

weeds are left. There, they find food, and, allegedly, sanctuary from threats. Pike disrupt the peace,

however, ferreting through cuts and openings, as well as cruising along the edge picking off the careless.

Ultimately, panfish only find safety in numbers, some brethren sacrificed for the whole.

On certain lakes and reservoirs the summons comes in the form of whitefish and or tullibee (ciscoes).

Their reproductive ritual begins in the late fall and finalizes sometime after first ice. Perfect timing for

pike.

So the foodstuffs are up in the shallows, but located randomly. Weeds have already been noted. But

make sure your focusing on the greenest and thickest vegetation available. That could mean a lush

garden grove. In other situations it’s a thick spot amongst an acre of spindly brown weeds. The most

reliable weeds are found in shallow bays that are adjacent to the main lake.

River mouths are another natural draw. Pike are suckers for moving water. Suckers, the actual fleshy

baitfish, are common there. Take heed that ice quality on and around river mouths is several notches

thinner than what the main lake offers.

Although pike activity is at its seasonal peak, there are good, better, and best times to fish. Morning and

evening are no-brainers. With that said, historically, I’ve nailed the majority of my larger fish – 10-

pounds plus – during mid to late morning, say from 8 to 11 am. The last hour and a half of the day is

next in importance, but a distant second.

Weather is a factor as well. Invariably, I pound more pike on cloudy days than those marked with

sunshine. Pike roam more freely. They loosen their range and don’t stick as tightly to cover. In response,

I spread the field, which means running Frabill tip-ups while maintaining a rigorous jigging schedule.

Depending on the state’s legal allotment of lines and how many partners I’m sharing the ice with, it can

be half-dozen tip-ups sprinkled about a 200 foot radius.

The only thing that bests cloud cover is cloud cover on the leading edge of imminent precipitation,

either snow or one of those bothersome early winter mists. Pike go bonkers before a front.

Now about that tiptoeing and black-ops stealth I mentioned earlier… Yes, early winter pike are ferocious

feeders. That’s to your advantage. But on the flipside, you’re operating in shallow water with only a thin

veil of early ice. The ice, in fact, is often transparent. To the fish, you’re silhouette is as apparent as the

old tire and boulder on the bottom you just walked over. Complicating matters, my preferred technique

positions me directly over their heads.

Jigging really scratches their itch, though. When pike are on the move an energetic jig is irresistible.

Pre-drilling puts the angler in position to operate stealthily. Drill your holes 15 minutes to a half hour

before show time. To really take advantage of the morning bite, pre-drill in the darkness, before pike

take their morning swim.

Finally, it’s fishing time. Lurched over a hole, I ready the rig, which was tied-up the night before. There’s

no finer opening act than an oversized jig fitted with a live sucker minnow, either. My preference is the

Bionic Bucktail Jig from Northland Fishing Tackle. Hand-tied with genuine bucktail, the Bionic Bucktail

creates a full-figured and vibrant target. In clear water, I opt for White Cisco, as it mimics most native

baitfish. In darker conditions, Yellow Perch is a better choice.

Next comes a 4-inch sucker minnows or chub – they are the ideal length and shape for jigging pike. Liphook

the minnow with the forged single hook. The rear of the jig features a “sting’r” hook, a treble

tethered by teeth-resistant steel. Don’t stick the treble in the bait’s posterior. It’s a common practice,

but I’ve stung more pike with it floating freely alongside the minnow. My theory is that the lightest part

of the rig – the sting’r in this case – is the first to find a pike’s jaw.

The action is more of a swimming and dumbed-down-darting than classic jigging. Don’t snap it. Instead,

smoothly but confidently pump the jig in 1 to 2-foot motions. I’ll operate from top to bottom in clear

conditions. Pike aren’t bashful about rising to the underside of the ice. In darker water, I’ve found most

fish operate within 4-feet of the bottom.

Not just any old rod will do, either. Put away the panfish stuff. Remember, you’re tangling with musclebound

fish in a relatively small space. It’s fist to fin combat.

A guiding buddy of mine and northern pike nemesis, Paul Nelson, developed a pike-specific rod for

Frabill. It’s quite the fish tamer. Found in the Ice Hunter series, the 32-inch, medium-heavy stick yields

the perfect balance of a firm but playful tip with the backbone of a brontosaurus.

For battling in tight-quarters I recommend spooling with a superline, not monofilament or fluorocarbon.

You’ll appreciate the toughness and resistance to shredding. I look forward to testing the new

Performance Fuse from Sufix.

It takes angler skill to bring down fish of this magnitude as well. Expect violent runs and very dynamic

directional changes. To win, you must wear the fish out, no horsing it in. Pulling back too hard nearly

insures that the jig will tear free. Maintain pressure, letting the drag do what it’s designed to do. As a

failsafe, I back-reel with the drag-system covering my behind. If the fish runs exceptionally fast, lock

down on the handle and the drag takes over – beautiful 2-part harmony.

Icing a submarine-sized pike in the shallows isn’t like walking and chewing gum. Plan that the fish will

appear horizontally – wide head in the hole and numerous inches of body tucked beneath ice. Keep the

rod loaded, applying constant pressure while turning the fish. Obviously, it’s nice having a “net man”. As

the snout rises, prepare for the snatch and grab. Know that you’re going to get wet. In fact, to reduce

the risk of breaking off, I take the fish while it’s vertical, its movement restricted in the hole. As a bonus,

the fish is less likely to flip-out and injure itself.

Once on the ice, it’s a quick photo – titans only – and the head goes back from where it came. Hold and

pump the fish a few times until it’s self-powered. High-five your partner, or do that faddish knocking

fists move, and it’s on to another screensaver quality pike.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • By The way that didn't work either!! Screw it I'll just use the cellular. 
    • It’s done automatically.  You might need an actual person to clear that log in stuff up.   Trash your laptop history if you haven’t tried that already.
    • 😂 yea pretty amazing how b o o b i e s gets flagged, but they can't respond or tell me why I  can't get logged in here on my laptop but I can on my cellular  😪
    • I grilled some brats yesterday, maybe next weekend will the next round...  
    • You got word censored cuz you said        B o o b ies….. haha.   Yeah, no… grilling is on hiatus for a bit.
    • Chicken mine,  melded in Mccormick poultry seasoning for 24 hours.  Grill will get a break till the frigid temps go away!
    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
    • I haven’t done any leaf springs for a long time and I can’t completely see the connections in your pics BUT I I’d be rounding up: PB Blaster, torch, 3 lb hammer, chisel, cut off tool, breaker bar, Jack stands or blocks.   This kind of stuff usually isn’t the easiest.   I would think you would be able to get at what you need by keeping the house up with Jack stands and getting the pressure off that suspension, then attack the hardware.  But again, I don’t feel like I can see everything going on there.
    • reviving an old thread due to running into the same issue with the same year of house. not expecting anything from yetti and I already have replacement parts ordered and on the way.   I am looking for some input or feedback on how to replace the leaf springs themselves.    If I jack the house up and remove the tire, is it possible to pivot the axel assembly low enough to get to the other end of the leaf spring and remove that one bolt?   Or do I have to remove the entire pivot arm to get to it? Then I also have to factor in brake wire as well then. What a mess   My house is currently an hour away from my home at a relatives, going to go back up and look it over again and try to figure out a game plan.           Above pic is with house lowered on ice, the other end of that leaf is what I need to get to.   above pic is side that middle bolt broke and bottom 2 leafs fell out here is other side that didnt break but you can see bottom half of leaf already did but atleast bolt is still in there here is hub assembly in my garage with house lowered and tires off when I put new tires on it a couple months ago. hopefully I can raise house high enough that it can drop down far enough and not snap brake cable there so I can get to that other end of the leaf spring.
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