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1989 Chev K1500 - CV axle replacement cost?


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All -

I have a 1989 Chev K1500 pickup with the 350 ci engine and 164,xxx miles. When the wheel is turned to near lock (in 2WD) and you allow the vehicle to roll, there is a popping noise that comes from the front of the vehicle. When in 4WD, just a little turn of the wheel will create the noise - it sounds horrible - and you can visually see the front wheels "jerking" when the pop noise occurs like there is binding going on internally. The faster you move, the higher the frequency of the noise (in 2 and 4WD). The 4WD works, but I don't trust it or use it anymore because of this. I have been told the CV axles may be worn out and in need of replacement. Does this sound like the problem? What do CV axles for this vehicle cost (parts only) and what would the average labor time be if I had a mechanic do the work?

Thanks all, I am trying to figure out if I should fix or sell the truck as-is and move on. I have had it for many years and it has always been dead reliable.

Thanks.

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Sounds like a really bad cv axle to me. I have replaced a couple lately that were doing exactly what your describing.

It sure wouldnt hurt to check the ball joints as well. Its a old chevy so they could be on their way out too. When you got it in the air check the wheel bearings too. Again, probably not the problem but its worth looking at.

The axle should run about 50$ with exchange at a auto parts store. Otherwise I have gotten a couple at the yard recently for a freinds winter beater for around 15$ and they worked fine. If its a vehicle your on the fence about keeping, junkyard parts are a way to get just a little more out of it.

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make sure what ever you do, you get the boots back on tight. lack of grease and or water/dirt causes these to go out quickly. while you have a lot of miles, it is time for them to start failing. good time to do breaks if you need them.

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  • Your Responses - Share & Have Fun :)

    • got this tackled today took about 3 hours to get both sides done. Didnt even get to use a torch....   Thought I was golden with just jacking it up and I could get to everything but no luck. Had to remove the entire axle hub and brake assembly to get to what I needed. Was a pain but still better then taking off the entire pivot arm.    Axle bearings were already greased and in great shape thankfully. Got both leaf springs installed and its ready for the road again.   Probably going to have my electric brakes checked, I am not touching anything with the brake drums. Based on what I saw it doesn't look like my electric brakes have been working anyway. Brakes are nice to have if its slippery out
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    • we had some nice weather yesterday and this conundrum was driving me crazy  so I drove up to the house to take another look. I got a bunch of goodies via ups yesterday (cables,  winch ratchet parts, handles, leaf springs etc).   I wanted to make sure the new leaf springs I got fit. I got everything laid out and ready to go. Will be busy this weekend with kids stuff and too cold to fish anyway, but I will try to get back up there again next weekend and get it done. I don't think it will be bad once I get it lifted up.    For anyone in the google verse, the leaf springs are 4 leafs and measure 25 1/4" eye  to eye per Yetti. I didnt want to pay their markup so just got something else comparable rated for the same weight.   I am a first time wheel house owner, this is all new to me. My house didn't come with any handles for the rear cables? I was told this week by someone in the industry that cordless drills do not have enough brake to lower it slow enough and it can damage the cables and the ratchets in the winches.  I put on a handle last night and it is 100% better than using a drill, unfortatenly I found out the hard way lol and will only use the ICNutz to raise the house now.
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