Another Fish House Construction Project

[gvt]

tisosy11,

The toy hauler bed is very stout. It's a steel frame, in fact it's suprisingly heavy. It will not break or bend. I'll up-size the pictures in the post today, should give a better view. Thanks

[Bulldoggr]

This new ACQ plywood will cause erossion with metal. It only takes a few months for the chemicals used in ACQ to start to deteriorate the metal. Any ACQ contact with metal{anchor bolts,Studs, Washers, Angles} less then 3/4" must have a Tar or Undercoating layer between the metal and the ACQ.

Also the primary Fastner systems reccomended for use with preserve treated wood are Hot-dip-galvanized and Stainless steel.

Also anyone that maybe looking at using an all aluminum frame. Direct Contact between aluminum is NOT Reccomended for CCA, ACZA or ACQ Treated wood.

This is direct quotes from a product sheet.

Just thought you might want to know.

[gvt]

Just for clarification, it is not the chemicals in the ACQ plywood that cause the corrosion. The corrosion is due to the higher concentrations of copper in the ACQ than is present in the ACC treated wood. The presence of copper causes galvanic corrosion due the contact of dissimilar metals (copper and steel).

To prevent galvanic corrosion the dissimilar metals must be "electrically" disconnected (no metal-to-metal contact).

I used ACC treated plywood, over time ACC will also corrode steel fasteners due to galvanic corrosion. To prevent this I used Tek screws that have an epoxy based coating. The coating on the screws is approved for ACQ treated wood.

The epoxy based coating effectively breaks the metal-to-metal contact between the copper in the wood and the steel frame or the steel fasteners (the frame is also powder-coated).

Stainless steel fasteners have the best corrosion resistance when used with ACQ treated wood, but in this case (screwing treated wood to a steel frame) stainless steel wouldn't help. The stainless steel would "conduct" between the copper on the wood and the steel frame thereby causing the holes drilled in the frame to rust.

In addition, the thick goober of PL400 that I put down between the plywood and the frame should help keep salt spray from coming into contact with the bare steel at the screw holes. I will likely have the underside of the house sprayed with foam insulation also.

Sorry for the rambling post, I hope some find it helpful. Thanks

[gvt]

Well I finally brushed on some white gel-coat. It's not perfect, the lines from the brush strokes are visible. But, it looks much better than it did before. If I had to do it over again I would probably go with the aluminum RV trim on the corners. The fiberglass was way more work than I thought it would be, but I am happy with the results.

I'll be installing a 15,000 btu Empire direct vent heater soon, any suggestions on what size copper line should I use for the propane???

[rocki]

use the soft black line, easier to work with and looks good too, they can cut and make your fittings to size also!

[gvt]

Has anyone used copper? The smaller O.D. would work well for my installation. Copper or rubber....what size do I need? Is 1/4" diameter large enough? Thanks

[gvt]

Well I finally got the aluminum treadplate installed. I've got some caulking to do them comes the heater.

[NAMASafetyDirector]

Nice Job!!! I like the diamond plate trim it really sets it off nice. The whole thing looks like it's coming together for ya. Enjoy yourself and be proud, she's a bute!

[gvt]

I spent some time this weekend wiring up some clearance lights on the fenders (yellow forward, red back). The blue wire is a cold-weather extension cord that stays flexible in very low temps. I used last winter to plug in my truck and it was always flexible. I also pimped the wheels with some stainless steel hub covers and stainless steel lug nuts.

[bigfishin21]

GVT

I used Epoxy for the floors in my fish house and was very happy with the final product. I had the concerns as you, not wanting to put carpet in because we will be carrying a 4-wheeler in there and my old house had carpet and it would never dry out the whole weekend. We actually put a clear coat and silica sand down over it which creates a non-slick finish. Let me know if you have any additional questions...

[gvt]

bigfishin21,

I am definitely interested, can you post some pictures? What epoxy did you use? Have you hauled the atv on it yet? Thanks for the info.

[bigfishin21]

GVT

I will try to get some pictures this weekend for you. However, I might need your email address, because I do not know how to post pictures on this HSOforum. The epoxy is normal Garage Epoxy. I have not hauled the 4-wheeler yet, but there will be no problems hauling it...

The only thing that I am going to have to do more than likely is get a mat to put under the 4-wheeler because I don't want to take off the chains each time I am traveling. The 4-wheeler chains are a pain is the #$% to get on, especially when it is -10 degrees out...

[gvt]

bigfishin21,

Pictures would be great, I'll post them here if you don't mind. My email is fearingtrende at hotmail.com

Also, Fleet Farm sells heavy duty rubber mats for cattle that would work great under the atv. There are multiple sizes, 4x6 or 4x8 should work well. I plan to get one after I figure out the rest of the floor. Thanks

[gvt]

Here are some pictures of the led hole lights the I rigged up. The bulbs are 5mm, 12V individual led's. The wires run all the way through the board (red and black). I put silicone around the led. The bulb is located just behind the 3/8" hole in the catch-cover ring. They light up the holes very well and use only a tiny amount of power. The lights are positioned so they point toward the outside of the house, that way you don't ever look directly at the bright led. After wiring was complete the underside of the house was spray-foamed.

[goetler]

Nice looking Build on your house. I am going to build one this summer and like your ideas for the holelights. The only problem that I have is I already have the frame spray foamed I do have to put electric bakes in yet.

[Lip_Ripper Guy]

Did you run the inside wiring through condiut eventually? I noticed it run in the corners in the pics.

[crappiekid]

gvt fantastic job on this project and i know the time and effort required. Not sure if you got your flooring done but 25 years experience has suggested menards indoor outdoor carpeting works the best! Sweep up chips after drilling holes or wipe up water if augering water into house and floor dry immediately. In the spring i wash with dish soap water and shop vac dry and like new. After fish slime, wheeler gas and spilling beer on floor: it needs a good cleaning. This works year after year and not expensive.... I also advise you to put a small fan near ceiling to push air around... Radio shack carries nice 12 V ones. Good luck

[gvt]

Lip Ripper Guy,

Inside the house the wires are hidden behind the trim. I used pine 1x3's for trim around all of the corners. I notched the back of the boards on the table saw. (I hope that makes sense?)

Crappiekid,

Thank you. I haven't put anything on the floor yet. I'm actually considering leaving it as is. It's been working just fine!!!

[Lip_Ripper Guy]

Yup that is exactly what I was thinking.

I think my last question:

What are the inside floor dimensions? Are they 6x16? Plus a couple feet for the sideways v-nose? I've been checking out these ProFish houses for a couple years.

[gvt]

You are correct, 6x16 + 2ft. I wish it was 6'-6", other than that I don't have any complaints.